The first quarter of this year has brought with it an array of notable new releases from some of the most interesting names in the industry. All eyes were on big Swiss brands like Rolex and Tudor as they unveiled novelties at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Bremont shocked fans with a total rebrand, and Swatch alongside OMEGA went on to release a second highly awaited Snoopy variation of their fan favourite MoonSwatches.
MOONSWATCH MISSION TO THE MOONPHASE - Credit Swatch
It wasn’t just the big Swiss brands that had us talking though. Closer to home, for us anyway, the first ever British Watchmaker’s Day got underway in London, and smaller brands like Studio Underd0g were met with near hysteria as watch enthusiasts from all over vied to get a ‘piece’ of the action. And let’s not even get into the big reaction earned by Christopher Ward’s Twelve X last month...
All this to say, the WatchGecko team have had a busy old time keeping up with this ever-ticking industry and that’s without even touching on May’s biggest releases. We’ve seen the rebirth of TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 Series, new SEIKO Prospex Solar Speedtimer’s, and the return of the 903-model series to Sinn’s repertoire. As well as this year’s star-studded MET Gala in New York City, which almost felt like a crazy game of ‘Where’s Wally?’, except, obviously, our eyes were raking the red carpets for watches not a little man wearing stripes and glasses.
TAG Heuer x KITH FORMULA 1. Credit: TAG Heuer.
With all of that going on, it can be easy to miss a beat, but don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. Here are our most exciting releases of May 2024…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer
Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer. Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 is presented with a striking miniature green enamelled world map on its dial, this creates not only a stunning visual effect but the timepiece itself is truly functional. This Master Grande model incorporates the Universal Tourbillon which makes a complete circuit of the dial every 24 hours and has been patented by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The World map and green opaline city ring mimic the rotation of the Earth as the Universal Tourbillon embarks them on a complete 360-degree revolution in 24 hours, allowing the wearer to read the time in each city simultaneously.
TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Titanium Chronograph
TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton Titanium Chronograph. Credit: TAG Heuer.
Monaco’s Formula 1 Grand Prix took place earlier this month and TAG Heuer saw it as the perfect opportunity to announce the release of a new Monaco model into their permanent collection. Richly steeped in racing heritage, TAG Heuer are known to release new iterations at the prestigious event and last year it was the turn of the TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton. The perfect representation of TAG’s more futuristic Monaco models, this year’s Skeleton variation is essentially a colour/material update, with the Monaco now presented in sandblasted grade 2 titanium with black DLC coating and a blue toned dial.
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton. Credit: Tissot.
Earlier this year we predicted that we were due to see a lot more Skeleton watches with something of a trend beginning to emerge. Despite being first invented in the 18th century and remaining relatively popular ever since, it feels like now more than ever the industry is inundated with these openworked marvels. Tissot have followed suit this month with a new skeletonised variation of their popular Chemin des Tourelles models and three versions are now available in a 39mm case size. Maintaining the traditional design the collection has become popular for, the new models now offer a window into the heart of the watch.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot x Air-Glaciers Limited Edition
Khaki Aviation Pilot x Air-Glaciers Limited Edition. Credit: Hamilton.
Exclusively designed in collaboration with the Air-Glaciers helicopter pilots, the new limited-edition model is yet another indication of Hamilton’s strong ties to rescue aviation. Partnering with one of the most advanced helicopter rescue organisations in the world, Hamilton now offer this refined iteration of their popular Khaki Aviation Pilot watches to ensure optimal accuracy and reliability. Strong, hypoallergenic and lightweight titanium houses the H-30 automatic movement with Nivachron balance spring, a day-date function at 3 o’clock and an 80-hour power reserve.
UNIMATIC All-black Trio: US1-8BB, U2S-8BB, U4S-8BB
Modello Uno US1-8BB, U2S-8BB, U46-8BB. Credit: UNIMATIC.
Italian watch brand UNIMATIC unveiled three new models to its Modello Uno series. Decorated in all-black, the new trio shows off UNIMATIC’s minimalistic design code. Each reference is equipped with the automatic Swiss calibre Sellita SW200-1 b and is housed in a black DLC case. Naturally, the dial is black too, but its striking gold metallic trims really help to bring it to life. In the typical UNIMATIC spirit of delivering uniqueness and rarity, these three new editions will be strictly limited pieces with only 99 of each being made available earlier this month.
Maurice Lacroix Ponto S Diver
Ponto S Diver. Credit: Maurice Lacroix.
Unveiling two new dive watches specifically crafted with city dwellers in mind, Maurice Lacroix presents the Ponto S Diver. Originally launched back in 2013, production of the Ponto S Diver was ceased a few years later due to the popularity of more urban watches, such as the AIKON. The full subaquatic potential of the original Ponto S Diver remained relatively undiscovered, but demand for the reinstation of the watch to Maurice Lacroix’s repertoire has led to a re-release in 2024. Now appearing in a slightly smaller, and ultimately more wearable case, several improvements have now been made to the latest iteration of the model. Well suited to city life whilst retaining a 30 ATM water-resistance rating, the evolved Ponto S Diver models are offered in limited-edition bronze or a special edition steel case version which has been dressed in black DLC.
Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT
Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT. Credit: Panerai.
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The Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT is the latest model to make its way into Panerai’s Luminor Complicazioni collection. Incorporating complex functions whilst maintaining a minimalistic, easy to use aesthetic, the Dieci Giorni GMT is equipped with the P.2003 and offers a staggering 10-day power reserve, which the wearer can monitor with the help of a linear indicator found on the dial. Boasting a GMT function with 24-hour indication that allows for simultaneous tracking of dual time zones, the Dieci Giorni stuns with its blue sandwich sun-brushed dial, complete with a generous helping of white Super LumiNova, Arabic numerals and hour markers, date at 3 o’clock, as well as small seconds at 9 o’clock.
Ball Watch Roadmaster M Perserverer
Roadmaster M Perserverer. Credit: Ball.
Next up, Ball Watch’s answer to the popular Tissot PRX. Performance focussed and designed in homage to Ball pocket watch owner Henry Ford, the Roadmaster M Perserverer is housed in a 40mm 904L stainless steel case and equipped with COSC-certified Chronometer Manufacture Calibre RMM7309-C which is capable of assuring accuracy to a remarkable -2/+4 seconds per day. Also offered in a chunkier 43mm variation, the Roadmaster M Perserverer is Ball’s idea of a daily beater and with its anti-magnetic resistance, luminosity thanks to micro gas tubes, 100m water resistance and smart integrated bracelet, we might just agree.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport
Tonda PF Sport. Credit: Parmigiani Fleurier.
Somewhere between elegantly purist and sporty, the Pamigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport maintains utilitarian functionality with a chic yet casual aesthetic. Available in three versions, Milano Blue, Arctic Grey or London Grey, each Tonda PF Sport watch is powered by the PF070 COSC-Certified automatic manufacture movement with integrated chronograph and a 65-hour power reserve. The oscillating weight has interestingly been designed in inspiration of the steering wheel of Ferrari’s legendary 250 GT0 and the dial is presented with a gorgeous guilloche dial with clou triangulaire pattern.
YEMA Navygraf Slim CMM2.0
Navygraf Slim CMM2.0. Credit: YEMA.
Now presented with an entirely redesigned steel case, the new 39mm 316L variation of the historic Yema Navygraf model has been slimmed down by almost 3mm to accommodate the CMM.20 micro-rotor caliber. Now just 9.5mm in thickness, the Navygraf Slim is perfectly sleek and more versatile than ever with black lacquered dial, minimalistic sapphire bezel and new slimmer dimensions that make it a perfectly suited option for all wrist sizes. 30 bar (300m) water-resistance has been impressively retained thanks to its sapphire exhibition case-back and enhanced screw-down crown.
MIDO OCEAN STAR 200C Limited Edition
MIDO Ocean Star 200C Limited Edition. Credit: MIDO.
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This limited-edition variation of the iconic Mido Ocean Star 200C is presented for the first time with a carbon fibre composite case and dial, as well as its traditional ceramic rotating bezel. Equipped with the COSC-certified MIDO automatic Caliber 80, the Ocean Star 200C offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve, as well as water-resistance up to a pressure of 20 bar (200m). Now even sportier, with grey and anthracite tones, the limited-edition Ocean Star is decorated with pure white Super LumiNova for perfect readability in all conditions.
Nomadic Marai 401 Prestige
Marai 401 Prestige Crimson Dawn. Credit: NOMADIC.
Nomadic watches announced this month that their popular Marai 401 model would be refreshed, with the introduction of the Prestige Collection. Now available with a luxurious two-tone gold-plated bracelet and case, the Prestige variation sees five new models added to the collection, with or without date function. Housed in 40mm case with 660ft water resistance and a Swiss mechanical movement, the Marai 401 range is Nomadic's homage to Belfast's rich heritage. Quite poetically, the new range will launch on the anniversary of the Titanic's debut and aims to reflect the opulence of the luxury liner which was crafted at Harland and Wolff Shipyard, Belfast.
MeisterSinger Enamel 1Z Edition
MeisterSinger Edition Enamel 1Z. Credit: MeisterSinger.
To celebrate the 20th anniversary of MeisterSinger’s inaugural timepiece, the Edition 1Z, the German brand have now released a commemorative Enamel 1Z Edition fit to delight nostalgic collectors. Limited to just 24 pieces, the Enamel 1Z Edition pays homage to its predecessor with its unique enamel dial, and modified Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement. Complete with minimalistic dial reminiscent of early pocket watches, the Enamel 1Z is presented as is common for MeisterSinger with heat-blued single hand. Aptly, this is the perfection representation of the watches full name, ‘1 Zeiger’, or for the English speakers among us, ‘1 Hand’.
Marathon Watches x Jeep Collection
Marathon x Jeep models. Credit: Marathon.
Marathon’s collaboration with Jeep is built on their shared mutual history of authentic military supply. Both brands have formerly been responsible for the manufacture of tools exclusively for use by Allied Forces and the the four-piece collection honours this joint history which dates to 1941. Drawing inspiration from two of Jeep’s iconic vehicles, including the Willys-Overland which was used during World War II, as well as Marathon’s popular GP and SAR collections, the collaboration has spawned four equally functional designs that are powered by Swiss-made Sellita movements, two of which are mechanical and the other two quartz.
Apiar The Invenire v1.10
Apiar The Invenire v1.10. Credit: Apiar.
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Finally, the first ever release by a brand we hope has many more successful launches to come. Founded in 2022 by childhood best friends Matt and Sam, Apiar looks to revolutionise the industry, one watch at a time. Perhaps the most unique offering on our list for this month’s best releases, each Invenire watch will be custom manufactured according to the desires of each individual customer. These configurations will be uniquely numbered, depending how many takers there are for each distinctive combination.
Crafted using cutting-edge ‘Additive Manufacturing’ that is more commonly reserved for the aerospace industry, Apiar are keen to bring this innovative technology to the luxury watch space. Their first release, the Invenire v1.10 is equipped with La Joux-Perret G100 movement, which offers 68-hours of power reserve. Proudly conceived in Britain, the 39mm watches are crafted from Grade 23 Titanium, offer 100m water-resistance and are available in 5 hand-painted matte dial options: black, onyx grey, engineering orange, Oxford blue and racing green.
So, there you have it,
The WatchGecko low-down on the new releases you really should be keeping an eye out for from May 2024. Join us again next month as we re-cap Junes offerings and let us know in the comments what your favourite release of the past month has been!
