Recently we had some quality time with the new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver. It is a brand most of us know because we see it often in retail windows, but it is a name we may not have taken enough time to study.
When you look at the current Maurice Lacroix portfolio, this is a high-end watch manufacturing company with prices reflecting that. Around 1995, I bought my wife a Maurice Lacroix from a local jeweller and paid about £199. Suffice it to say I could not buy her one for that now.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Blue - Credit WatchGecko
However, I am not suggesting the company has just pushed up the prices for the same old watches because when you look at the product range on offer today, there are some beautiful models representing everything we would expect from a reinvented Tier 1 Swiss brand.
As they were only released in May 2023, the Pontos S seemed like a great place to become acquainted. The Blue Company sent us three models, two in stainless steel and one in bronze. These may have been technically the same watch but rarely have I seen a collection of identical watches which look so different.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Blue - Credit WatchGecko
So what do we know about Maurice Lacroix?
The brand as we know it first appeared in 1975 and hailed from the Jura Mountains in Switzerland (as do so many excellent watch brands), but its origins date back to 1889. Today the company is headquartered in Saignelégier in the geographic heart of Swiss watchmaking.
The current Pontos S is a revisitation of the 2013 design, which incorporates numerous technical enhancements while retaining the original design's DNA. This model is more interesting because it was conceived in partnership with Lidija Lijić, a world-champion free diver. This professional attachment puts an interesting and unique spin on a diver tool watch. It gives it kudos.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Orange - Credit WatchGecko
All models, whether steel or bronze, have a 42mm case and an internal bezel which is operated with a second crown. It is only when you really take a close look at these watches, especially if you're lucky enough to have all three in front of you, do you realise there are very subtle differences in the range, and that's where the experience of Maurice Lacroix's design ethos comes out. Although technically the watches are the same, there are so many different accents of orange, blue and white. Different coloured rings on the second crown and bold strap choices all give each model an individual feel. The stainless steel models are not limited, but the bronze edition is limited to 500 pieces only.
Whether it's because of the involvement of Lidija Lijić, illegibility on the new Pontos is exceptionally good, with each dial having supreme clarity. Whilst silver hands on a white dial may not traditionally be the most suitable for a dive watch, we found the white dial model to be our universal favourite, especially when put on the white rubber strap. With its blue highlights, it had an authentic nautical look.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Orange - Credit WatchGecko
Whilst the double crowns give the watch a functional look, absolute symmetry has been achieved with the dial with the date subtly recessed at the 6:00 o'clock marker. The white stainless steel model has a smooth dial, while the black and bronze limited edition models have textured dials, which are striking seen up close.
Ramped indices and bevelled hands give the watch a purposeful look, and deep fill Super Luminova ensures clarity in low light or underwater. The steel models have minute hands reflective of the colour accents, orange or blue, while the bronze watch retains a monotone look.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver White - Credit WatchGecko
The machine's heart is the ML115 calibre, which is a slightly reworked Sellita SW-200-1 Elaboraé. This movement offers a 38-hour power reserve, bidirectional and hand winding, and is unlikely to let you down. There is also a Maurice Lacroix branded rotor which unfortunately cannot be seen as there is no display case back. In its place, we have a screwed-down solid case back with a stylised wave logo and a large M.
For the launch of this watch, we are informed each model will come supplied with three colour-coordinated straps; an M-branded fabric strap and two rubber straps incorporating the Maurice Lacroix branding. This makes for a genuinely attractive package for the price when you consider this model against other 300m professional dive watches.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver White - Credit WatchGecko
The Pontos S Diver represents very good value for money at CHF 1990.00 (approximately £1790) for the stainless steel model and CHF 2530.00 for the limited edition bronze model. When we pulled all three models out of their box after delivery, there was an overwhelming impression of quality, and everyone in the office picked up on this. These watches felt like they should be far more expensive, which makes them both unusual and highly desirable in the 300m genre. Both male and female WatchGecko staff tried them on; without exception, we all liked them.
Looking back at my first few paragraphs when I discussed buying a Maurice Lacroix for my wife, I remember my selection was based on the fact that I thought the watch looked good and it felt high quality. Thirty years on, I remember it clearly; quite small with a white sunburst dial and a leather strap with a gold M. I find it astonishing that we are here now in 2023, and Maurice Lacroix seems to have pulled this feat off again. There's no question in my mind that if I was looking for a 300m dive watch, the Pontos S in white or bronze would be in my top five for consideration. So from that perspective, getting hands-on with these watches has been a bit of a revelation. We would encourage you to do the same.
Thanks again to Monica and her team at The Blue Company, who manage ML's affairs in the UK, for the beautiful loan watches.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver White - Credit WatchGecko
