Hot on the heels of the striking Pelagos FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Special Edition Tudor presents us with a new black dial FXD, which pays homage to the watches worn 60 years ago by US Navy divers.
Introducing the new 2023 Pelagos FXD reference: M25717N-0001.
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
The new watch pays tribute to old "Milsub" watches worn by military divers in the 1950s and 60s. "Milsub" is a designation we usually associate with specialist Rolex Submariners with sword hands, but it can equally be applied to Tudor Submariners due to extensive military service.
This new 200M Pelagos is the pinnacle of dive watch evolution with fixed strap bars (hence the FXD), a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture Calibre and a unidirectional elapsed-time rotating bezel. Tudor is openly rebranding it as "Milsub" to channel the classic era ethos.
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
Built to serve
The latest 2023 Pelagos iteration comes in a 42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed strap bars (FiXeD), with the whole structure being machined from a single block of titanium. A dive navigation compatible unidirectional rotatable bezel, also in titanium, with a ceramic insert, has a 60-minute graduation infilled with X1 Super-LumiNova, which is approved to ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers' watches. As with the previous Pelagos the matt black dial has applied hour markers also filled with X1.
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
Powering the Pelagos Navy is an in-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602, a COSC-certified movement with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve.
It wouldn't be a Tudor without the trademark "Snowflake" hour hand, a feature on such watches since 1969. Historically, the US Navy fitted their watches with fabric straps and the Pelagos maintains this tradition. This military model comes with two straps, one in fabric with a self-gripping fastening system in forest green with a red central accent and a new one-piece rubber strap.
A Brief History of Tudor and the US Navy
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
In 1958, the US Navy officially adopted Tudor and purchased to issue them to divers. The watches were famously used by SEAL teams until the 1980s when US military specifications changed to tritium, although you may still find many privately owned Tudors in service. It may no longer be standard issue, but the heritage is unmatched. In 1965, the first edition of the Underwater Demolition Team Handbook (aka Navy SEALs) showed a TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928 in the "Diving Watch" paragraph. Later, in 1973, the US Navy Diving manual listed the TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7016 and 7021 as "Navy-approved" diving watches. This relationship continued for another ten years, with the final Tudor entry being deleted as "issue kit" by the Navy in 2004.
100% in-house manufacture
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
Every TUDOR watch is assembled and thoroughly tested at the new TUDOR facility in Le Locle, Switzerland. Completed in 2021, this factory took three years to complete and measures more than 5,500 square meters over four levels. The investment in the new headquarters has allowed the brand to integrate the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres and take complete control over quality.
BORNTODARE
Tudor Pelagox FXD US Navy - Credit Tudor
Is Tudor's recent campaign reflecting the brand's history and what it stands for today. It tells the adventures of individuals who have achieved the extraordinary on land, on ice, in the air or underwater, with a TUDOR watch on their wrists and refers to the founder Hans Wilsdorf, who had the vision to see that people would need wrist watches for more extreme activities and environments. The TUDOR Born To Dare spirit is supported worldwide by ambassadors, whose achievements result directly from a daring approach to life.
Tudor Pelagos US Navy Ref: 25717N Technical Specifications:
- Brand: Tudor
- Model: Pelagos 2023 US Navy Homage 200M
- Price: £3490
- Material: Titanium
- Movement: In-house Manufacture Calibre MT5602, a COSC-certified movement with a hairspring in silicon and a 70-hour power reserve
- Crystal: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Matt black
- Size: 42mm in diameter, 12.75mm thick, 52mm from lug to lug
- When the reviewer would personally wear it: This is a dedicated dive watch and has a strong military presence so it will not be everyone’s go-to daily choice. That said the watch is striking and smart and is sure to be noticed. I would wear it every day without hesitation as it fits 100% into my lifestyle but that will not be the case for everyone.
- A friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone who is inspired by Tudor’s BORNTODARE tagline or wants a classic Milsub but wants to avoid the Rolex Submariner rabbit hole. Let's be honest, this watch is much more on-trend than the Rolex, you can buy one immediately and it's £5160 cheaper.
- Best characteristics of the watch: The striking dial which is about as good as legibility gets. Plus the cool history.
- The worst characteristics of the watch: The integrated strap holders and fabric straps. This is a very restrictive design element and will really put some people off the watch. So, you could just buy a normal Pelagos but that’s £710 more.
