In a current WatchGecko YouTube interview series with Chris Vail, the CEO if NTH, we explore the “what if” element of the company’s design ethos.
NTH / WatchGecko Vintage Sub Amphion - Credit WatchGecko
Recreating a classic
This is perhaps best illustrated by the recent NTH/WatchGecko collaborations which resulted in the Vintage Sub series. A collection of beautiful steel tool watches which bear a passing resemblance to old 1960s and 70s Rolex and Tudor Submariners. The Subs themselves already existed as an NTH design; WatchGecko’s mission was to “vintage” these platforms and we did this by adding a more prominent 60s style box sapphire crystal, patina effect lume and altering the fonts to reflect a bygone era.
The results exceeded everything the joint NTH and WatchGecko creative team had planned. A new range paying homage to some of the most desirable vintage watches yet at the same time being contemporary, affordable and most important technically capable. The range is split into four principal models, two of which are in classic recognisable colours while the remaining two are in subtle new tones which neither Rolex nor Tudor used. These watches were consciously created as the “what if” element of the collection. Arguably the most interesting part.
Introducing the Amphion
As a vintage Rolex fan, without the budget to buy a 1968 Submariner ref: 5513, I was delighted when the concept became a reality and as soon as the watches were available treated myself to an NTH Amphion in Anchor Grey. As WatchGecko staff I was lucky to see the concept computer rendering of the watch prior to public release and even on a 2D screen in the office the Grey model was the one which really caught my attention.
Hands on with the Amphion Anchor and reality is every bit as interesting. At first glance the grey resembles black which has faded on a vintage watch. It is only when you really study the watch up close the colour is clearly defined; the dial and bezel are almost a battleship grey (which by coincidence is the colour of the Aston Martin DB III driven by a well known literary secret agent. See the chapter “Thoughts in a DB III” in Goldfinger).
NTH / WatchGecko Vintage Sub Amphion - Credit WatchGecko
A bit of 16800
The dial of the watch never fails to please. As the owner of a Rolex with a Cyclops lens I found it familiar yet still interesting. Legibility is very clear even though the hands and indices are subdued. There is a real sense of age with the watch and after while it is not hard to believe you are wearing a vintage model, so convincing is the cosmetic work.
As there is no border around the luminous markers I feel the watch is channelling an early matte dial Rolex ref: 16800, before the “Transitional” 16800 came out. Unlike the original vintage model the watch dial is thankfully less text heavy and no attempt has been made to replicate the look and feel of the extensive lettering on the 16800.
The technical elements
The case is the perfect size and height. With a diameter of 40mm and a lug to lug of just 48mm the Amphion sits well on any wrist (as my wife can testify) and at just 13mm thickness, including the vintage crystal, the watch remains ideal for daily wear.
NTH / WatchGecko Vintage Sub Amphion - Credit WatchGecko
Whilst every effort has been made make the dial look old (short of Erbstück weathering it) we must not lose sight of the fact that this is highly modern and capable watch. The hands, printed indices and bezel markings are all coated with X1 GL7500 C Super-LumiNova. This lume compound is 60% stronger after two hours than standard BGW9.
The case of the watch is the obligatory Marine Grade 316L stainless steel with an integrated crown guard again very close in design to the 16800. The screw down crown itself follows familiar style and secures the 300m water resistance.
Powering the entire Vintage Sub range is an automatic Miyota 9015. This movement was released in 2009 and represents an upgrade from the 8215 which Miyota introduced in the 1970s. The 9015 offers a 42 hour power reserve, 28 jewels with a high beat frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and a hacking feature.
How to wear the Amphion?
Most of the images of the watch in this feature were taken while I was on a break at Abersoch and the eagle eyed amongst you will have noticed that there are no shots of the Amphion in its Oyster style bracelet. This is no reflection on the bracelet supplied as standard, it’s simply how I prefer to wear my watch. The steel bracelet that comes with the NTH is a perfectly good rendition of the classic style and additionally has a flip-lock, two push button release (like an Omega Seamaster) and a divers wetsuit extension so you cannot go far wrong with it.
NTH / WatchGecko Vintage Sub Amphion - Credit WatchGecko
I like to ring the changes so when I travelled with the watch to Wales I packed it on a ZULUDIVER Sailcloth and Classic Bond Military Nylon (of course….).
I also had with me a spare nylon in grey, a WatchGecko Vintage Highley in leather and the original NTH Oyster. Well, if you are travelling with just one watch you need to fill the slots in your watch roll with something don’t you?
NTH / WatchGecko Vintage Sub Amphion and strap collection- Credit WatchGecko
In truth the watch lived most of the time on the Classic Bond as the look and complementary colours were perfect and it is my preferred style for tool watches. The satin finish on the metal work of the strap matched the case and bezel – in fact it looked so good I sent a picture to the company MD and suggested we sell the combo! He agreed and we will do just that for all the Vintage Subs very soon. Watch this space.
In summary
The NTH/WatchGecko Vintage Subs are superior steel tool watches hitting technically well above their weight for the price. But what you additionally get with this series of watches is more subjective and harder to define. Do they feel like you have the impossible dream vintage watch on? Yes they do, especially I believe with the “snowflake” hand models, which I don’t own yet. The watches these models take inspiration from are out of the reach of most of us so the opportunity to own a highly capable dive watch which makes it feel like you now possess an elusive “grail” is well worth considering.
