AP sure know how to make some headlines this SIHH...
For the collectors out there who have felt AP have been resting on their laurels for the past years and riding the success wave of the Royal Oak - this year is the year you have been waiting for...
Audemars Piguet announced recently the new launch of a brand new collection for the brand, named CODE 11.59 - (cryptic, I know).
And when we say new, we really mean new. This one is as new as it gets.
The Collection
Automatic 11.59
41mm Case
30m Water Resistant
Lacquered Dial
Gold Applied Logo
Hand-Stitched Alligator strap
Manufacture Calibre 4302
32 Jewels
70 Hours Of Power Reserve
28,800 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
Red Gold Case with White Dial
Red Gold Case with Black Dial
White Gold Case with Blue Dial
Automatic Chronograph 11.59
41mm Case
30m Water Resistant
Lacquered Dial
Gold Applied Logo
Hand-Stitched Alligator strap
Manufacture Calibre 4401
Flyback Chronograph
32 Jewels
70 Hours of Power Reserve
28,800 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
Red Gold Case with Blue Dial
Red Gold with Black Dial
White Gold Case with Blue Dial
Red Gold Case with Black Dial
Perpetual Calendar
41mm Case
20m Water Resistant
Aventurine Dial
Gold Applied Logo
Hand-Stitched Alligator Strap
Manufacture Calibre 5134
Perpetual Calendar with Week Indication, Day, Date, Astronomical Moon, Month, Leap Year, Hours, Minutes
Flyback Chronograph
38 Jewels
40 Hours of Power Reserve
19,800 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
Red Gold with Aventurine Dial
Flying Tourbillon
41mm Case
30m Water Resistant
Lacquered Dial
Gold Applied Logo
Hand-Stitched Alligator strap
Manufacture Calibre 2950
Flying Tourbillon
27 Jewels
65 Hours Of Power Reserve
21,600 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
White Gold Case with Smoked Blue Enamel
Red Gold Case with Black Enamel Dial
Tourbillon Openworked
41mm Case
30m Water Resistant
Hand-Stitched Alligator Strap
Manufacture Calibre 2948
Tourbillon
19 jewels
80 hours of power Reserve
21,600 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
Red Gold
Minute repeater Supersonnerie
41mm Case
30m Water Resistant
Lacquered dial
Gold Applied Logo
Hand-Stitched Alligator Strap
Manufacture Calibre 2953
Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
32 Jewels
72 Hours of Power Reverse
21,600 Vibrations/Hour
Options:
White Gold Case with Smoked Blue Enamel Dial
AP has been busy.
Each watch listed above all feature brand new movements including an in house flyback chronograph (with column wheel) 70 hours of power reserve all visible through a display case back.
For me, the case is where it is at with the new CODE 11.59...
The Case
The octagon shape for AP is not only a true icon for the brand but also a true icon in the design world for the past century. It is unquestionably now apart of APs whole brand message and something the CODE 11.59 hasn't forgotten about. This predominantly brushed cased is a three-part construction with the central part incorporating the famous octagon sides.
The lugs of the case create a bridge design which floats around the octagon centre of the watch creating an extremely aggressive modern look to the watch from the side.
The Crystal
This uniquely constructed watch, also has a unique crystal to match. This double curved crystal has been vertically curved from the bottom of the dial to the top and then its spherically curved underneath also.
It's hard to tell from head on images, however from the side, you can really see the impact of this feature.
And finally, the dial designs.
This is the part of the watch I believe has caused the most...shall we say 'debate' online in the past few days. Each watch combines slim hour markers and delicate hands with clean, legible, simple dial layouts creating a very universally appealing design. For new AP customers, I can see where this design is very appealing.
Whichever direction AP were to take their new collection, they were always going to hear from people who loved it as well as people who despised the change. Personally, I love the case. The construction is incredible and is a truly unique approach from a brand looking to incorporate their heritage. The sheer volume of new movements from AP is also very commendable. For me, I'm not a huge fan of the dial designs. I imagine this is probably down to the fact I'm comparing it to other AP offerings in the form of the Royal Oak. A personal favourite of mine is the Minute Repeater Supersonnerie with the smoked blue enamel dial and a clean, balanced aesthetic.
After AP recently announce their decision to reduce the number of watches they have in retailer stores over the next 3-5 years and just focus purely on AP establishments - it stands as an interesting time for the brand. And in their own words with the release of the CODE 11.59:
'What comes now was born to evolve...'
'Constantly reinventing itself, while never losing sight of its origins, Audemars Piguet never stands still...'
