When it comes to rectangular watches, there’s one that holds such a significant place in timekeeping history that we can confidently call it an “icon” and a true holy grail watch for many.
We’re talking about the Cartier Tank.
Cartier Tank - Credit WatchGecko
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This is a watch that has been worn by Princess Diana, Jackie Kennedy, Gary Cooper, Ralph Lauren, Andy Warhol… the list goes on. But despite its red carpet status, timeless silhouette and spinel-set crown, this is a watch designed with militarian influence. It was first introduced in 1919, inspired by the shape of a WWI combat vehicle. It was designed by the company’s founder Louis François Cartier with the intention of breaking the boundaries of the traditional curvaceous, round design codes in watchmaking at the time.
You might notice how the vertical “brancards” down the side of the Cartier Tank’s case replicate the military vehicles’ treads and the overall silhouette of the case is a tank’s cabin seen from above. Some have even suggested the hands mimic the cannon’s barrel and the layout of the dial, which uniquely sees the square-shaped minutes track on the underside of the Roman numerals, hint to a tank’s turret.
Cartier Tank - Credit Cartier
These design elements have allowed the Cartier Tank to become an icon of design and in turn one of the most highly searched watches on the internet. It’s become a go-to in high-fashion and high society and even more so amongst collectors of legendary timepieces. But as is the case with many iconic watches, their price points aren’t accessible to us all.
Even the most affordable Cartier Tank watches retail from £3,150 and those crafted from 18ct gold and diamonds move into five figures. So, what if you love the look of the Cartier Tank but you’re looking for something more affordable? Well, we’ve got you covered. Here are our top five affordable alternatives to the Cartier Tank…
Longines Dolcevita
LONGINES DOLCEVITA - Credit Longines
Whether intentional or not, the Longines Dolcevita has a design close in looks to the Cartier Tank. It has the same rectangular-shaped silhouette with straight lugs and sapphire crystal glass and an elegant selection of dials often adorned with Roman numerals and square-shaped minutes tracks placed at the centre of the display. Those with the silver flinqué dials are a personal favourite, offering a subtle shimmer and texture close to that of guilloche. These are beautiful, sophisticated dress watches available with quartz or automatic movements, retailing from £1,300.
Oris Rectangular
Oris Rectangular - Credit Oris
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- £138.00
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Oris is best known for their tool watches – their Aquis model is a best-seller for good reason, recognised as one of the best value 300 metres diver’s watches out there. But a genre they don’t tap into all that often is the dress watch and yet as their Oris Rectangular proves, this Swiss watchmaker has a penchant dressy for timepieces too. The Oris Rectangular is, as its name suggests, a line-up of sleek 40mm rectangular watches with brightly polished surfaces, automatic movements and railway track-adorned dials. These retail from £1,800.
Hamilton American Classic Boulton
Hamilton BOULTON MACARON - Credit Hamilton
Swatch-owned Hamilton has also provided us with another affordable alternative to the Cartier Tank watch. The Hamilton American Classic Boulton is inspired by the watches of the 1920’s, offering a brightly polished oblong case with tear-drop lugs, sapphire crystal glass and calfskin leather straps. What’s most impressive about the Boulton however is its price considering the movement inside. Aligning perfectly with the design’s retro inspirations, the watch is powered by the manual winding H-50 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. A manual winding, well-designed dress watch for just £840 is a no brainer in my eyes.
Raymond Weil Toccata
Raymond Weil Toccata - Credit Raymond Weil
Another stunning rectangular watch is the Raymond Weil Toccata. Raymond Weil are no strangers to the dress watch, with the Toccata collection largely consisting of classically round daily beaters with elegant aesthetics. Among them are a small selection of rectangular designs with sharp angles, multi-faceted fixed bezels and Roman numeral-adorned dials. Sadly, the Raymond Weil Toccata is currently only available with a quartz movement retailing from £895, but I’m hopeful the Swiss watchmaker will add some mechanical calibres into the line-up soon.
Rotary Cambridge
Rotary Cambridge - Credit Rotary
Our final affordable alternative to the Cartier Tank is the lowest priced yet. The Rotary Cambridge Rectangle is a slim, detailed and undeniably elegant 28.5mm by 42mm dress watch inspired by the company’s original 1970s Cambridge collection. It’s smooth and brightly polished stainless steel case is paired with scratch resistant sapphire crystal glass and leather straps with alligator-style embossing. The dial is kept super simple with a smooth silver finish and printed black Roman numerals. Inside is a Miyota quartz movement. The Rotary Cambridge retails from just £189.
