2020 Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 Review

I don’t really like the word “iconic” as it is often overused in the watch industry, but I would definitely say that The Zenith El Primero is part of a small group of “iconic” chronographs, along with the Omega Speedmaster or the Rolex Daytona. Wearing a Zenith El Primero connects you to a significant chapter in watchmaking history, and its story is truly remarkable.

First launched in 1969 as the first automatic chronograph wristwatch, the El Primero then disappeared in the late 70s before making a comeback and becoming a favorite among top Swiss watchmakers, including Rolex. With this in mind, a quick look at its history will provide valuable context before we review the watch in question.

In 1865, Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith, had the forward-thinking vision to implement an industrial approach to watchmaking. He innovatively integrated all stages of watch production under one roof, effectively bringing to life a watch “Manufacture" as we understand it today.

Precision has consistently been a key focus of the brand, and Zenith has gathered an impressive 2,330 chronometry prizes throughout its history - a record that remains unbroken. The company officially adopted the Zenith name in 1911, a decision that followed their "Zenith" movement's prestigious gold medal win at the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition.

In 1962, Zenith decided to develop the first automatic chronograph wristwatch to be launched for the brand's 100th anniversary in 1965. The requirements set for this new movement were groundbreaking and designed to make a mark in horological history.

To maintain the slim profile of a standard automatic watch, the chronograph needed to be integrated, on top of measuring to a tenth of a second – hence the high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5Hz). The movement had to incorporate a date display and to deliver a power reserve of 50 hours.

As you can imagine, creating such an innovative caliber proved to be a lengthy process, leading to the company's failure to meet the 1965 deadline. Zenith soon learned that they were not the only watch company working on an automatic chronograph, as Seiko and the Chronomatic group were also giving their all to release a new caliber as soon as possible.

Thankfully, Zenith was finally able to present the El Primero at a press conference on the 10th of January 1969. Even though the Zenith movement didn't become available to the public until later in 1969, after Seiko's and the Chronomatic group's chronographs were already available for purchase, its technical specifications were in a different league. Moreover, the innovative design, featuring three colored subdials, allowed for easy reading and made the El Primero instantly recognizable.

Following its release, the El Primero's intricate movement led many to question its reliability. To dispel these rumors, Zenith pulled what we now recognise as a PR stunt and strapped an El Primero to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 flying from Paris to New York. After being subjected to extreme temperature and air pressure variations during seven hours, the watch emerged completely unscathed.

One might assume that the El Primero story would be a resounding success from that point, but the truth was a different matter altogether. Only a couple of years later, initial sales of the Zenith El Primero were lukewarm, and quartz watches began to saturate the market.

Zenith was then acquired by an American company called Zenith Radio Corporation, which specialized in radio, hi-fi, and television manufacturing. The new management viewed quartz technology as the future and decided to cease production of the El Primero and liquidate the chronograph watch manufacturing plant in Les-Ponts-De-Martel.

That would have been the end of the story if not for one determined man, Charles Vermot, the chief of Ebauches manufacturing. Convinced that mechanical watches would eventually regain popularity, he decided to secretly safeguard all the El Primero's production capabilities, including tools, presses, and industrial plans. Unbeknown to his employer, he would return to the factory at night, meticulously concealing all the equipment behind a wall in the attic with the assistance of a few trusted colleagues.

This horological treasure, valued at millions of Swiss Francs, remained undiscovered for years until the company's acquisition by new Swiss-French owners in 1978. The resurgence of demand for mechanical watches in the 1980s led Swiss watch brands to seek high-quality chronograph movements. Initial orders from Ebel, followed by a significant one from Rolex, revived production of the El Primero. Since then, over ten Swiss luxury watch brands have incorporated the El Primero into their watches.

Now under LVMH, Zenith has produced the El Primero in numerous variations, ranging from futuristic designs to historically faithful models, which leads us to the Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 at hand today.

This watch stays true to one of the original El Primero designs, with subtle adjustments that modernize its appearance while retaining the charm of the original version. Visually, the watch immediately exudes quality thanks to its beautiful finishing and appealing design.

The coloured subdials and striking red chronograph second hand, complete with the Zenith star, give the watch a beautiful presence on the wrist. A small date window has been integrated at 4:30, a welcome feature that also remains true to the original El Primero.

The overall proportions are excellent, and the 38mm case is a significant plus, offering ample legibility without being overly ostentatious. The beautiful El Primero 400 movement, composed of 278 components, is visible through the caseback. Again, great care has been applied to the finishing, with a beautiful rotor, blued column wheel and blued screws. 

Offering 50 hours of power reserve, the movement provides the typical autonomy expected of an automatic watch and allows for a day or two of being unworn. The watch is delivered on a dark brown alligator strap with a deployant clasp, also beautifully finished.

One of the main pleasures of owning a mechanical chronograph is engaging with the pushers, whether using the tachymeter scale while racing the 24 Hours of Le Mans or more modestly timing pasta, as most of us mere mortals do. The El Primero chronograph is an absolute pleasure to use, with the pushers delivering a truly precise and mechanical feel. 

Watching the red chronograph second hand glide smoothly around the dial, thanks to the 5Hz movement, never grows old. While the movement is not COSC certified, most El Primero owners report excellent accuracy, often falling within the COSC range of -4 to +6 seconds per day. Because the El Primero operates at a high beat rate, it is crucial to maintain a regular servicing schedule, as its pallet fork and escapement are sensitive to running dry. Zenith currently charges £300 for a partial service and £650 for a full service in the UK.

If the perfect watch does not exist, the Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 comes pretty close by providing superb wearability, a strong visual identity, and great horological significance.

This watch was very kindly loaned to us by the trusted team of vintage watch specialists at Watches of Lancashire.