As Charlotte stated in her previous piece, 2023 has been a bumper year for new watch releases. We have seen new trends and styles, pastel colours have come into their own, and there has been a distinct reduction in case sizes, with 35-36mm being prolific.
The British Watch Industry has certainly played its part in the year with some stunning new creations. Synonymous, with a distinctive blend of innovation and technical excellence, British watches will have a major showcase in March 2024 at the inaugural British Watch and Clock Makers Exhibition in Lindley Hall, London.
To fire you up before this exciting show, here is our choice of new British releases from the last 12 months.
Richard – Marloe Watch Company – Solent Timer – OCEANIC
Marloe Solent Timer Oceanic - Credit Marloe
Marloe has established solid nautical connections, with many of their watches being linked to areas as diverse as the Haskell Strait in the Antarctic to Coniston Water in the Lake District. Both pay respects to legendary activities involving exploration or speed. Keeping with that tradition, the brand released a 2023 evolution of the Solent Range in the form of the Oceanic. Available in Blue, Yellow and Orange, this watch captures the essence of a famous UK stretch of water and the latest colour palates reflect the world of yachting.
Technically the watch is an improvement on the original Solent with better sealing screw-down dual crowns, a new 42mm case and dial design and dial pattern accents which look like deck boarding. Powering the new Solent Ocenaic is a Miyota 9039 automatic mechanical movement. Marloe never fails to impress and represent quintessentially British watch design with a contemporary edge, often linked to a technical side of our aviation or maritime history.
Charlotte - Christopher Ward The Twelve 36
Christopher Ward The Twelve 36 - Credit WatchGecko
My favourite watch release from a British watch brand in 2023 goes to Christopher Ward’s The Twelve. There’s a large number of integrated sports watches on the market right now and really, it’s becoming quite a competitive space. Many are also crazily priced and not exactly easy to obtain. CW, however, has reinterpreted the Genta-inspired design excellently, combining luxury finishings with accessible prices.
The collection’s offering has already become pretty expansive in just short of twelve months. There are designs in steel, titanium or bi-coloured steel and gold and dimensions of 40mm and 36mm. The 36mm models in particular get my stamp of approval since this size, as I explained in another article here, is a great meeting point for all genders and wrist sizes.
The Christopher Ward The Twelve 36 ticks all the boxes of the popular integrated sports watch. It has a barrel-shaped case with superb finishing, a textured dial and an integrated strap of either rubber or metal. A nice addition is the twelve-sided bezel and the elongated crown guards which protect a sharply fluted screw-in crown. Every model, no matter the size or case material, also comes with an exhibition case back, 100 metre water resistance and sapphire crystal glass.
Finally, I have to mention the impressive detailing on the dials. That dial pattern is actually Christopher Wards cross logo on repeat, raised from the surface to catch the light. There are a number of dial colours to choose, each set with sharp hour markers and sword-shaped hands coated in Superluminova. Another reason I enjoy the 36mm variants out of the lot is for the lack of a date window. It gives the visually complex display a touch of clarity.
Nathan - Fears Brunswick Aurora
Fears Brunswick Aurora - Credit Fears
Watch collecting is often a balance of specs and looks. I’ve settled for many boring black dials when looking for 200 meter dive watches. On the other hand, I’ve purchased dress watches that felt so fragile I hesitated to even wash my hands while wearing them. But lately I’ve noticed a welcome trend of brands prioritizing both beauty and robustness. Notable examples are the Formex Essence Mother-of-Sky made with a dial featuring a single piece of a Pinctada maxima shell, and Christopher Ward’s The Twelve, with its captivating textured dial. Both are beautiful watches that feature 100 meters of water resistance and are capable of thriving in any setting.
Of all the recent releases to blur the lines between sport and dress, the Fears Brunswick Aurora stands above the rest in my book. I’ve long admired the comfort-forward cushion shape of the Brunswick line as well as its ability to pull off full Arabic numerals without looking like a run-of-the-mill utilitarian field watch. The blue-tinted mother of pearl dial featured on the Aurora, the first of its kind to ever appear in a Fears watch in their 177 year history, is utilized impressively well for an inaugural use of the material. Though the dial is the star of the show, it is well protected by 150 meters of water resistance and a screw down crown.
I hope the trend of attractive dials in medium and large size watches with sporty specs is here to stay. The Fears Brunswick Aurora sets a high bar and I’m looking forward to seeing how other brands follow suit in 2024.
Martin – Durham Pullman
Farer Durham Pullman - Credit WatchGecko
I often find it difficult to choose just one favourite, British watch per year as there are so many worthy of applause most years now, and this year is no exception. That said, the biggest first impression ‘wow’ for me is Farer’s latest in their popular and successful run of cushion case designs: the Durham Pullman.
I was always going to be a tad biased in my choice for 2023 as I do love much of what Farer release. I fell in love with Farer’s first cushion case design, the Stanhope and purchased it’s sequel model, the Stanhope II, on its release in 2021 ( see also https://www.watchgecko.com/blogs/magazine/farer-nuff-a-look-at-the-stanhope-ii) and since then a number of other colourways followed. A year or so later, along comes their latest: new colour variant of their popular Durham design – and what a stunner it is.
The rich, dark emerald (‘Forest’) sector dial with polished markings and hands is gorgeous and the choice of alternating Roman numerals and hour batons is perfect, as is their choice of a contrasting, lighter green small-seconds hand at 6 o’clock. The whole watch face oozes perfect, aesthetically pleasing symmetry; angle it in differing lights and the green hues change and to an almost black appearance too. Farer are renowned for their play on colour and the Durham Pullman is no exception either.
Farer offer numerous strap styles, textures and colours, but paired with the complimenting dark green St Venere leather, or maybe the rich, tan variant, and you have something very classy, yet sporty, upon your wrist.
A unique, British design that incorporates a reliable and accurate, hand-wound Swiss (Sellita) movement – what’s not to like?
Neil - Studio Underd0g 02 Series
Studio Underd0g 02 Series - Credit Studio Underd0g
In my view, Studio Underd0g stands out as the premier UK watch brand. Since unveiling their inaugural Chronograph collection in 2022, the essence of fun has been intricately woven into their designs. Richard Benc, the driving force behind the brand, has honed his craft with a singular focus on excellence. The recent release of the 02 Series has exceeded all expectations, with an astounding 2428 pre-orders in the initial 9-hour window of opportunity —a testament to its widespread appeal.
The 02 Series breathes new life into the modest Field Watch, displaying meticulous attention to detail while maintaining a sense of restraint within the realm of design constraints. It effortlessly resonates with a diverse audience, drawing parallels to the iconic Dirty Dozen watches of the past—a modern incarnation that captivates enthusiasts.
Despite being a small entity, Studio Underd0g has undergone remarkable growth, quadrupling its team to a total of four members this year. The addition of the enthusiastic intern, Magnus, under the mentorship of Richard, signifies a promising future. This expansion is anticipated to alleviate some of the pressures on Richard, fostering an environment where creativity can flourish and more magic can happen.
The Steffany Blue from the collection stands out as a personal favourite. Its captivating dial, particularly in low light, paired with the mesmerising full lume dial against pumpkin-coloured hands, makes it a true standout in the Studio Underd0g line up. As the brand continues to amass widespread admiration, the trajectory for Richard and his team appears to hold nothing but greatness.
Corbin - Bremont Supermarine Ocean
Bremont Supermarine Ocean - Credit Bremont
The Bremont Supermarine Ocean, with its limited release of 400 pieces and a price tag of £3,850.00, was one of my favorite releases in British watchmaking in 2023. This dive watch marries functionality with an understated style, appealing to both serious divers, oceanic conservationists, and watch enthusiasts.
Featuring a 40mm grey case, the Supermarine Ocean is equipped for deep sea adventures and everyday wear. At its core is the modified Calibre 11 1/2’’’ BE-932AV, boasting a 50-hour power reserve. The grey ceramic dial, adorned with wave-like engravings, adds a distinctive oceanic touch while maintaining legibility.
Practicality is at the forefront of the Supermarine Ocean's design. The 24-hour unidirectional rotating bezel and 300m water resistance qualify it as a reliable tool for divers. The stainless steel bracelet adds to the classic, understated look white enhancing durability, making it a sturdy option for daily use. GMT functionality further adds to the versatility.
What really sets the watch apart is its limited release and link to marine conservation, through its association with marine conservationists Ocean Ramsey and Juan Oliphant. A portion of the sales supports 'Save the Turtles International,' which adds a nice layer of purpose to each purchase. The fact that each watch is hand-built to order adds yet another rare and limited quality to this watch.
Overall, Bremont’s Supermarine Ocean is a watch that feels at home both under the ocean waves and in daily urban life, making it a well-rounded choice for those seeking a watch that can handle various aspects of their lifestyle.
