There are ‘new’ watch brands, ‘old’ watch brands, ‘revival’ watch brands, and then a few others we could call ‘phoenix’ watch brands. These are brands that were always there, but have somehow risen spectacularly from the ashes – often by referencing the back catalogue.
Nivada Grenchen is one prime example: a company that has really hit its stride since the relaunch in 2020 by offering glorious Swiss watches with a distinctly retro twist, such as the magnificent Antarctic and Super Antarctic. These offer a true taste of the company’s heritage, with 35mm sizes in the case of the former, and some stunning dials that include eggshell, salmon, and spider – as well as hand-wound movements.
The latest model to benefit from this treatment is the brand new Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT announced today, showcasing a cohesive and historic design language that blends in seamlessly with the rest of the current range. That’s because it’s pretty much a faithful copy of Nivada Grenchen’s original GMT watch back from the 1960s, which is a pretty rare find these days. But here is one example sold on Hodinkee – spotted by Nivada Grenchen’s CEO Guillaume Laidet – that illustrates just how close the new remake is.
To give you an idea of the significance of the Antarctic as a family, there’s even been a book written about it, by Aashdin K Billimora – which charts the definitive history of the very first watch to the sent to the world’s southernmost continent.
And the theme of exploration firmly lives on in this latest release. The dimensions (36mm), design, and traditional distinctive super compressor case shape – admittedly somewhat at odds with a water resistance that is now just 50 metres – have all been retained, with a domed plexiglass crystal for further authenticity. This all adds up to a nostalgic recreation of the jet age, with my favourite detail being the red chequered GMT hand itself, which reads exactly like a cockpit instrument from the early days of jet planes. This is definitely a watch that evokes those distant days when air travel was romantic, and passengers were seen as jet set adventurers rather than self-loading freight. And that’s exactly how a timepiece like this should make you feel; even when travelling on Ryanair…
Having had the chance to take a sneak peek at the 2024 WatchPro Salon, it definitely captures the feeling of the age, and sits comfortably on the wrist thanks to its compact dimensions: although like many watches of this design, it actually feels a bit bigger to wear. One thing that hasn’t changed over the years is the sheer utility of a GMT watch for frequent travellers, and this one is delightfully easy to use, with at-a-glance readability.
There are two dial colour options: black – which will form part of the permanent collection – or tropical brown (limited to 99 pieces) which is again wonderfully evocative of the 1970s. To my mind, the black works better and is more legible. Both watches get the characteristic black and yellow bezel, which can be used to track a third time zone and is controlled by the crown at two o’clock. As for the movement, it’s now a Soprod C125 (as opposed to the original AR-1146) delivering a 42-hour power reserve. On the back of the case you’ll find the characteristic Nivada Grenchen penguin: a great little detail to indicate that this is proudly an ‘Antarctic’.
The strap options are also fittingly throwback. This GMT works particularly well on the perforated leather ‘rally’ strap, which suggests warmer climes where the seasoned traveller once roamed on his classic jet, although there’s an equally retro beads of rice bracelet offered too, as well as a rubber option.
Back in the 1960s and 1970s, the heyday of the jet age, it wasn’t uncommon for First Class air travellers to enjoy lobster thermidor, freshly cooked on board. However, prices for this new Antarctic GMT are distinctly economy class, which is another good example of how this classic watch has been successfully reinvented for the modern age.
Once orders open on November 14, the Antarctic GMT will be available from €1500: somewhat cheaper than the original – if you can even find one. Obviously, at this price point, compromises have had to be made – which is why this watch is no longer a true super compressor, with a more modern and cost-efficient case architecture now employed. However, to most people – myself included – this really won’t matter. The key aesthetic features have all been successfully carried over and, importantly, this still feels like a £1000+ Swiss watch of appropriate quality and heritage.
It would be incorrect to say that the GMT watch is making a comeback because it never really went away, but there have been some very cool GMT releases recently – and this is undoubtedly up there with the best of them, with added retro charm. It’s yet another hit from Nivada Grenchen.
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT
Technical Specifications:
- Model: Antarctic GMT
- Indexes: Applied silver-tone indexes with SLC3 Lume
- Diameter: 36mm
- Thickness: 11.1mm
- Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
- Case Finish: Brushed
- Strap Size: 20x16mm
- Movement: Automatic winding
- Functions: Central hours, minutes, sweeping seconds; independent central GMT hand; date
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Movement: SOPROD C125
- Crystal: Plexiglass
- Caseback: Engraved with a penguin
- Water Resistance: 5 ATM
- Retail Price: 1600 USD / 1400 CHF / 1500 EUR
