Watches and Wonders season is upon us once again, which means one thing: Rolex and Tudor are back to remind us who’s boss. Every year, the watch world holds its breath, wondering what fresh delights (or familiar riffs) these two giants will unveil. Will Rolex finally give us that left-handed Daytona nobody asked for? Will Tudor make yet another Black Bay variation that we somehow all want anyway? The suspense is unbearable.
In this piece, Anthony puts on his fortune-teller hat and attempts to predict what Rolex and Tudor might have in store for 2025. Some of these guesses might be spot on, others wildly off the mark—but that’s all part of the fun. Will he crack the code, or will the brands throw us a curveball? Let’s dive in to Anthony's Watches and Wonders 2025 predictions...
Watches and Wonders 2025 Predictions
Rolex Predictions
A couple of years ago, Rolex released the Yacht Master in titanium but since then, it has focused on the steel and precious metal watches for which it is most famous. So this year, the time feels right for another titanium Rolex – and what could be more appropriate than the Daytona: an iconic collectors’ item, which is synonymous with motorsport, where lightness and advanced technology reign? The Daytona, with its busy dial, would also make the perfect foil to the subtle matt finish of a titanium case and bracelet: for me, it's a watch that’s crying out to be made.
And speaking of motorsport, Rolex has this year lost its long-standing Formula 1 sponsorship to the LVMH Group, so it would be strategically clever to double down on the existing deals that it already has. Here’s a complete punt (rather than a solid prediction): how about a Rolex Le Mans, which would combine a motorsport connection with a 24-hour timer? Perception is everything in the world of watches, and this would be the perfect answer to any doubters who claim that Rolex is losing its grip on the prestigious world of motorsport.
It's a big year for the company, which celebrates its 120th birthday and also 70 years of the GMT Master. Expect neither of those occasions to pass unnoticed: there could be some new ‘celebration’ dials to replace the somewhat controversial jigsaw puzzle, bubbles, and emoji look that was phased out at the start of this year.
Who knows what form that celebration could take but here’s an idea for this year: how about an Oyster Perpetual that somehow highlights the ‘1’ and ‘2’ numerals while putting the date window at three o’clock in a circle, thereby spelling out ‘120’?
As for the GMT Master, expect some new bezel and dial colours, or a revival of previous favourites. Maybe even a platinum version. However, the smart money suggests a classic black and red ‘coke’ version: a watch that so many people have been asking for over the last several years. Maybe this is the year that those wishes will come good?
Tudor Predictions
Tudor has historically tended to enjoy a bit more freedom than Rolex, whose recent releases at Watches and Wonders – especially last year – have tended to be somewhat conservative and rarely lived up to the hype.
This year should be no exception, with Tudor continuing to maximise its assets to appeal to a younger clientele, while moving upmarket and making the most of its new factory at Le Locle opened two years ago.
Last year, Tudor returned to motorsport in a big way by sponsoring the Racing Bulls team: basically the Red Bull Junior team. That squad has already been in the headlines this year, while Tudor created a special version of the Black Bay in 2024 to celebrate the partnership with a dial in the team’s signature blue. Expect another Formula 1-inspired watch this year from them, except perhaps a Pelagos in white this time: the team’s predominant colour this season.
Elsewhere, Tudor is likely to continue its push upmarket by releasing some full gold watches, and the obvious candidate for this is the Royal – as an alternative to the practically unobtainable Rolex ‘president’. We’ve already seen a full 18K gold bracelet Black Bay released last year (with a green dial) to popular acclaim, so why not? It seems a logical step.
And speaking of gold, there was a lot of talk about the ‘Only Watch’ Tudor Prince Chronograph One in 2023: a one-off watch made in gold that revived a classic chronograph (and an emblematic Tudor name) from the 1970s.
Also known as the ‘Big Block’, this 42mm prototype featured a brand new movement from Kenissi: Tudor’s movement manufacturing arm. We've not heard much about it since, but it seems hard to believe that a company such as a Tudor invested so much research and development just for one piece two years ago. A new Prince Chronograph is almost inevitable – but will this be the year? There’s a strong argument for waiting until next year, as the original ‘Big Block’ first came out in 1976 – but there’s no question that this watch would sell extremely well right now.