For four decades, the genius of the Kurt Klaus-designed Perpetual Calendar movement has been widely extolled. A robust, reliable, highly legible design, Klaus probably never imagined it would still from the foundations of a key calibre in the brand of IWC forty years after he first laid it out in pen and ink, and yet, it not only remains one of the brand’s most identifiable calling cards, but something of an industry standard that is admired by many other companies who likely wish they’d been the one to conceive it.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC
Since Klaus developed the calibre in the 1980s, it has undergone several revisions, ensuring it remains a leading light in horological circles. The moonphase complication, for example, has been refined. While it was once accurate to within one day over 122 years, it can now claim the same accuracy over 577.5 years, an excellent achievement for a calibre that remains recognisable as a descendent of the original.
The first Portugieser model to feature an iteration of the Perpetual Calendar movement debuted in 2003, with this latest update honouring the modern legacy of the line. Key to its instantly identifiable appearance is the double moon indicator, which shows the phase of Earth’s only satellitic body as it would be seen from the northern and southern hemispheres.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC
This year, IWC is rolling out four new colourways of the classic design in three case materials. In 18-carat white gold we have reference IW503703 with a “horizon blue” dial and reference IW503704 with the “dune” dial, and in 18-carat Armor Gold® cases we have reference IW503702 with an “obsidian black” dial and reference IW503701 with a more traditional silver-plated dial.
Crucially, IWC has taken steps to reduce the heft of this iconic model by slimming the case middle and overall watch profile (in a similar fashion as the brand applied to the basic automatic versions). Most strikingly, the brand has employed double box sapphire crystals on the front and back of the watch to further reduce the watch’s visual impact.
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar - Credit IWC
With such attention paid to the wearability and visual presence of the watch on the wrist, it is no wonder IWC chose to partner with Santoni when it came to the production of leather straps for these four new references. The colour of these straps has been chosen to enhance the colour of each dial. The horizon blue dial being has been paired with a light blue strap, the dune and obsidian dials are matched with black straps, and the 18-carat Armor Gold® model with the silver-plated dial is presented on a brown strap for the warmest and most inviting colourway of the four.
These novelties are a welcome addition to the collection, but one could be forgiven for hoping we’ll see these new case refinements and delicious dial colours deployed in a more affordable stainless steel housing at some point in the not-too-distant-future so more people will be able to enjoy this horological stalwart on the wrist.
Our Choice of Straps
If you’re looking for a high-quality replacement watch strap for the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, then look no further than the WatchGecko store. Our Leuven leather straps are unique and timelessly stylish with a supple grain that feels extremely comfortable on the wrist. Alternatively, the Durboy strap is a charming addition with its exotic pattern and durable quality, handmade by experienced and passionate artisans.
Technical Specifications:
- Name: IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
- Collection Reference: IW5037
- Case Dimensions: 44.4 mm wide by 14.9 mm thick
- Crystal: Sapphire, double box-glass, antireflective coating on both sides
- Water Resistance: 50 metres
- Movement: IWC-Manufactured Automatic Calibre 52616, with a 7-day power-reserve