As one of the most visible and recognised brands in the world (within and without the watch industry), there can be no doubt that Cartier has been doing a lot of things right since its foundation in 1847. The simple answer to the question, “What makes Cartier watches special?” would be “heritage”, and while that is one pillar of the brand’s success, there’s a little more to it than that.
While it’s true that simply surviving for a long period of time adds immense weight to the regard in which a brand is held, Cartier’s history of excellence within the fields of both jewellery and watchmaking as well as its reputation as an innovator from both an aesthetic and a branding perspective have seen it rise to the very upper echelons of watchmaking repute.
While Cartier is equally as well known for its fine jewellery, its role in the popularisation of wristwatches for men cannot be understated. It is broadly regarded as being responsible for the widespread transition from pocket watches to wrist-worn timepieces with the creation of the “Santos” watch in 1904.
The Santos, a square bezelled wristwatch that still exists (and thrives) in the collection today, was designed for Brazilian aviator, Alberto Santos Dumont, who wore the iconic timepiece during many of his pioneering flights. Prior to this partnership, wristwatches (when they were seldom seen) had been more the preserve of women. As the 20 th century got underway and fashion evolved, Cartier was at the forefront of novelty, regularly regarded as the go-to choice for the rich and famous.
In fact, during its existence, Cartier has been the crown jeweller of 19 royal houses, with British monarch Edward VII (himself a legendary figure in the field of fashion) anointed Cartier “The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers.”
Aside from establishing the wristwatch as the default way to tell the time for men and women, Cartier pioneered the use of platinum in jewellery, with the bright white precious metal’s strength allowing for near-invisible settings, which themselves set Cartier’s glittering output apart from its competitors’.
Nowadays, the most famous Cartier model is almost certainly the Cartier Tank, which came to life in 1919. Its design was inspired by the cutting-edge tanks deployed on the western front of World War II. It is hard to imagine how such an iconic, established, cornerstone design could once have been jarringly modern, but the Tank wowed audiences with its clean lines and exquisite execution. Its simple elegance has buoyed its popularity over more than a century and it is often regarded by watch experts and passing watch lovers alike as the quintessential dress watch.
Having a single true icon in a brand’s ranks is often enough for said brand to prosper, but Cartier has much more than that to offer. Along with the Santos and the Tank, Cartier has repeatedly defied expectations by releasing time-proof concepts, rarely missing the mark in the process.
Extant models such as the Panthère, the Baignoire, and Ballon Bleu de Cartier continue to adorn the wrists of societies elite thanks not only to the watches’ attractive designs, but also because of the brand’s power and the instant communication of luxury. Furthermore, one should never forget the groundbreaking Cartier Crash, a Dali-esque masterstroke that continues to inspire designers to this day for its utter boldness.
As a brand employee reputedly once said, “Cartier, it’s a must!”, for those looking to send a message of success and status, Cartier is the obvious choice.
So appropriate was that nameless employee’s exclamation that when it was heard by Robert Hocq, Cartier president at the time, he coined the phrase "Les Must de Cartier", which became a diffusion line of the brand in 1976.
Cartier has weathered the most challenging times faced by the watch industry with a steely determination and relentless trust in its product line that should be an inspiration to all onlookers. Now, in 2025, the brand is more powerful and significant than ever with the recently released report on the most successful names in watchmaking, produced by Morgan and Stanley and Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult, ranking the Parisian Maison at number two, behind only Rolex.
As I have written in many articles before, the 21st century saw Rolex morph from a watch brand in any recognizable sense into a phenomenon for which normal “rules” no longer apply. The Geneva-based behemoth commands a huge share of the luxury watch market with an estimated turnover of 10,100,000,000, more than three times that of Cartier in second place.
However, one key statistic from the report is the estimated unit price of the two brands, which is also quite a way apart. The report estimates that the average Rolex retailed for CHF 12,218 excluding VAT, while the average sale price of a Cartier was just CHF 5,712. That discrepancy accounts for the difference in units sold, with the Crown only outpacing the French master by a ratio of roughly 2:1.
In real numbers, Cartier sold 660,000 watches to Rolex’s 1,240,000 in 2024. That’s more than half a million examples of this storied maker’s wares making their way to all corners of the globe, continuing to spread the message of a brand for which the entire watchmaking industry has much to thank. With the backing of major luxury conglomerate the Richemont group and the adoration of a new generation of watch lovers who have grown up seeing the brand’s masterpieces on the wrists of popular actors and celebrities gracing red carpets and award ceremonies on a regular basis, there is no doubt that Cartier remains a rock-solid choice for anyone and, arguably still very much a must for all watch lovers to own at some point in their lives.
