Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph - Credit Jaeger Le Coultre
Jaeger Le Coultre will of course always be associated with the Reverso, but underlining the fact that there’s so much more to the brand is the new Polaris Chronograph, which comes with two dial variations. To my mind it’s one of the most attractive releases that JLC has come out with – and that includes the fabled Reverso.
The most eye-catching of the two is a thoroughly modern grey colour that really stands out. This is mainly down to a lacquered finish that properly shines: a description applicable to the other dial colour, deep blue, as well. In total, there are actually 35 coats of lacquer lavished on the dial, which is what lends this watch such an accomplished finish.
Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph - Credit Jaeger Le Coultre
The whole look ends up being thoroughly three-dimensional, with a series of textured surfaces that brings the dial to life. This is complemented by the polished stainless steel case, which also helps to capture and reflect the light. Expect this watch to be a joy to wear, but a pain to photograph.
Like all chronographs, this is undeniably a busy watch but the design is sensible enough for it not to appear cluttered: in character and finish, it feels closest to something like the new Grand Seiko Tentagraph (with Grand Seiko being another company that has proved to be a master of lacquer).
Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph - Credit Jaeger Le Coultre
But there’s a lot that’s very distinctive to this new Polaris, with the skeletonised hands adding to the overall feeling of lightness, as well as a few discreet orange accents to improve legibility. With nice and chunky pushers, it also seems to be an easy watch to operate: an aspect that’s surprisingly overlooked on a regular basis.
They’ve had time to practice though. The Polaris name is one that goes a long way back in JLC history, having originally been developed in the late 1950s as a larger dive watch variation of the Memovox dress watch (complete with mechanical alarm complication). This was carried through to the first Polaris, meaning that this became the first-ever dive watch with an underwater functioning alarm, alerting the driver to come back to the surface with an audible chime.
Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph - Credit Jaeger Le Coultre
The very first watches in fact had ‘Deep Sea Alarm Automatic’ written in italic font on the dial. Like this latest version, the original Polaris came in at 42mm – although the rest of the design is now very different, with the addition of the calibre 761 chronograph movement, while keeping some of the basic design cues on the hour markers and lugs in particular. Water resistance is now 10 bar (as opposed to 30 bars on the original). So is it a dive watch, a dress watch, a sports watch, or something else?
It doesn’t really matter. The Polaris name is one that has now transcended its original genre, and this is the best one yet. Although with prices starting from £13500, it probably needs to be.
Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph - Credit Jaeger Le Coultre
Jaeger Le Coultre New Polaris Chronograph Specifications:
- Case: Steel
- Dimensions: diameter 42 mm; thickness 13.39 mm
- Calibre: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 761
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute counter, central seconds indication and tachymeter
- Power Reserve: 65 hours
- Dial: Blue lacquer or Grey lacquer
- Strap: Blue dial: steel bracelet and additional rubber strap;
- Grey dial: beige canvas and additional rubber strap;
- Both models are supplied with an interchangeable folding buckle
- Water resistance: 10 bar
- Reference: Blue dial: Q9028181; Grey dial: Q902843J
- $14,300
