Here’s a rundown of some of the most interesting and desirable Rolex models from Rolex’s history, including three discontinued models, and two from the current collection that might appeal to the more well-versed collector looking for something new.
The Rolex Turn-O-Graph
First released in 1953 (the same year as the Rolex Submariner), the Turn-O-Graph is an often overlooked model that hung around for quite some time, only dropping out of the catalogue for good (at least, for now) in 2011.
It is, in short, an odd duck. Throughout its run, many iterations of the Turn-O-Graph were made. Some models are so different from one another, that they almost look as if they’ve come from different model families. Some models look more like a dressy Submariner while others could easily pass as a sporty Datejust (which is the model family the Turn-O-Graph eventually joined).
It is possible that this somewhat scattershot approach to design confused buyers (and maybe Rolex itself) to the point at which the collection ceased to make enough sense to continue.
Nowadays, it would be hard to imagine Rolex being so experimental with any of its lines. The brand is known for its “evolution not revolution” approach to product releases and we rarely see anything released under an existing model name that fails to toe the line militantly.
For that reason, the Turn-O-Graph is a very interesting model for collectors. Its blend of styles and high level of functionality for a watch on the dressier side of things make it very appealing.
Following its first discontinuation, Rolex revived the model in the early 2000s. It is the watches from this brief window that I think are most appealing (and accessible) for seasoned collectors looking to spice up their watch boxes. While the very early models are more historically interesting, the really beautiful, almost proto-Sub designs, command fearsome sums on the secondary market.
Look for reference 116264. This 36 mm jacked-up Datejust with its charcoal black dial and bright red seconds hand, dial print, and date number is an edgier and more interesting model than you’re likely to find in the current lineup. Best of all, these can be found in good condition for less than a modern Datejust.
The Rolex Cellini 1908
Rolex Cellini 1908 - Credit Kibble Watches
For some watch collectors, the Cellini collection is superfluous and shouldn’t even bother existing. That’s a bit of a harsh assessment for a brand that has been making dressier watches since its foundation, so I’ll respectively park it at the door while we take a look at this hot-off-the-press release.
The 1908 is unlike everything else in the collection. It is unabashedly backwards-facing and looks to celebrate the brand’s long history of elegant watch design. I would be amazed if this were the first Rolex bought by anyone, but for a committed collector who likely has examples of several model lines, it’s a refreshing change of pace.
There are four versions of the same design. You can have the 39 mm case in either white or yellow gold with either a white or black dial. The movement — the in-house Caliber 7140 — is visible through a sapphire display back. Despite that, the watch is still water resistant to 50 meters (although that is my one major gripe with this watch, which I believe Rolex should have made resistant to at least 10 bar).
Regardless of the very “un-Rolex” water resistance, the 1908 is a peach of a watch. It’s certainly a good Rolex to buy if you don’t want it to be immediately obvious you’re wearing a Rolex (and, sadly, in this day and age, that’s maybe quite a smart thing to consider).
The Rolex Explorer II 1655
Rolex Explorer II 16570 on ZULUDIVER Mayday Regatta Sailcloth Divers Watch Strap - Credit WatchGecko
This is one of the most famous reference numbers in the history of the Crown. It is associated with Steve McQueen (despite him preferring the Submariner) and is well-known for its big arrow 24-hour indicator. The dial design is uncharacteristically finicky for Rolex but the result is one of extreme visual interest.
There were actually several versions of the dial and bezel made for this reference. Rolex itself produced five different versions of the dial while an external contractor that Rolex worked with in those days produced a further three iterations. The oldest version (the MKI) also has a different seconds hand (a straight stick rather than the lollipop design that became popular later).
Ultimately, though, they are all excellent. If you have the chance to pick one up for a good price (and that’s usually around the 20k mark), don’t drag out your decision. They don’t tend to hang around for long.
The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126529LN
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona - Credit WatchGecko
The Rolex Daytona needs no introduction, but the latest addition to the collection feels like something very different indeed…
While the 40 mm white gold 126529LN shares the recently redesigned case profile of the rest of the models, it has a couple of aesthetic quirks that mark it as very much its own design.
This (surprisingly) non-limited core model has a flash of colour on the Cerachrom bezel at “100”. The century marker is picked out in bright red, which ties the exterior of the case to the bright red used on the Daytona printing just above the six o’clock sub-dial.
Miniscule details like this make all the difference. Despite there being no more red anywhere else on the front of the watch, this feels like a colourful edition of a usually staid classic.
And while white gold has never been my personal favourite material for watches, there is something to be said for how well the Cosmograph Daytona wears it. Although I’m sure most people who have just shelled out close to £50,000 for this model will choose to keep it on the solid white gold bracelet, it would look incredible on a nubuck leather strap (which somehow has the ability to bring out the subtle warmth of white gold, which is almost always lost when the case and bracelet are ton-sur-ton).
Keen-eyed collectors will notice the font and stick style of the sub-registers recalls the famous “Paul Newman” dial, which is a touching callback to one of the brand’s most beloved (albeit accidental) testimonees.
I’ve never seen myself as a Daytona guy, but I could see myself wearing this watch. Although it may seem hyperbolic, I believe that reference 126529LN is hands down the best iteration of the Daytona ever made. Let me know if you agree or disagree in the comments below.
The Rolex Datejust Oysterquartz 5100 Texano
1980 Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust Steel & Gold 17013 - Credit Kibble Watches
The name says it all. The Oysterquartz line was the poster boy of the now-defunct foray into quartz movements. The retro-futuristic designs have aged really well, and with the current appetite for integrated bracelet sports watches like the Czapek Antarctique, AP Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin 222, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Tissot PRX among others, the Oysterquartz is begging for a comeback.
However, while a regular Oysterquartz is an excellent pick-up (and there are plenty of these available on pre-owned marketplaces for budgets between 5–10k), there is one little-known reference that is not just the best Oysterquartz ever made (in my opinion), but possibly one of the finest wristwatch designs in history.
Reference 5100, or the “Texano” if you prefer (which I very much do), is a seldom-seen quartz watch with a heavenly integrated bracelet that I honestly don’t think Rolex has come close to matching since.
They are rare. They are expensive (set aside at least £30,000 if you want a good one). But they are glorious, and would easily be the first Rolex I would buy if money were no object.
