Seiko Save the Ocean
Prospex Glacier ‘Save The Ocean’ Turtle 110th Anniversary Edition - Credit Seiko
One of the most joyful annual events in the industry is Seiko’s yearly release of a new “Save the Ocean” model series. These are always a lot of fun, often with cutesy wildlife references built into the dial (like my personal favourite Manta Ray edition from 2021 or the heart-melting penguin footprints of 2022).
Some of the money you put down goes towards Seiko’s ocean preservation charities, which is always a nice touch, but, from a product perspective, you can be sure you’ll be getting a solid, collectible, and visually interesting watch from one of the globe’s most beloved makers of affordable timepieces.
Fortis Marinemaster M-40
A curveball at number four? Maybe. But aside from loving the brand of Fortis and the team behind it, I also adore Fortis watches (particularly my own Marinemaster M-40, featured in the images in this article).
While this pattern is made on a stamping press rather than by the hands of an artisan, so too are many of the best textured dials in watchmaking. What is special about the Marinemaster dial pattern, however, is how distinct it is. It is unlike everything else on the market.
The “O” of the Fortis logo is repeated from edge-to-edge. This design is neither distracts from telling the time nor jars with its surroundings because, despite the subtlety of the connection, the presence of the “O” in the wordmark almost magically quietens the whole affair.
Although I might suggest wearing any of the original M-40 models (either the white, blue, green, or grey dials) on the block bracelet (which boasts an incredible micro adjustment in the clasp) rather than the “Horizon” rubber straps upon which they are delivered, the “O” pattern repeats along them also, which results in one of the better interior to exterior decoration transitions I have encountered.
Atelier Wen Perception
Atelier Wen Perception - Credit Atelier
While the guilloché dials of Atelier Wen beggar belief at the asking price of this soaring luxury brand out of China, it is possible the construction of said dials that makes the display of these confusingly affordable watches so beguiling.
During a recent conversation with Frenchman Robin Tallendier, co-founder and CEO of the brand, he explained to me that the many elements of the dial are assembled using an ancient architectural technique common in China that requires no glue, welding, riveting, rubbing, or peening to hold the components in place. The simply clip together, supported by pressure and profile. Not only is this a conversation starter in itself, it also happens to result in a dial far more interesting to study than the majority of mainstream fare.
AnOrdain Model 3
AnOrdain Model 3 - Credit AnOrdain
Is there a better textured dial on the market for under 5k than the latest addition to anOrdain’s already-legendary catalogue? Well, I obviously think there’s one, but that’s mostly because of the overall package you get from the top pick on this list rather than simply the dial itself.
Head-to-head with anything available in 2024 under 5k or even up to maybe 30k, I honestly don’t know if anOrdain can be beaten. Truth be told, there’s no way these watches should be this affordable given the level of research and development, and old-world craft mastery that has gone into their creation. Founder and CEO Lewis Heath knows this all too well, but his dream of making real enamel dials for true lovers of genuine artisanship accessible trumped the green-eyed monster that rules many other brands operating at price points many times that of this humble Glasgow-based outfit.
And that’s good news for consumers, of course! The model 3’s dial evokes a light-dappled lake bed and is one of the most calming designs to carry on your wrist daily. It offers a moment of tranquility with every glance, and is probably one of the most eye-catching conversation starters you could hope to find from a modern maker.
Straum Jan Mayen Collection
Straum Jan Mayen Collection - Credit Straum
Sitting around the £2,000 mark when taxes have been factored into the equation, the Straum Jan Mayen collection, which boasts dials is vivid blue, deep green, snow white, and moody black, offers one of the best go anywhere, do anything watches that money can buy.
Although the dials will always be the talk of the town, the Jan Mayen collection boasts one of the most robust-yet-elegant case and bracelet combinations out there.
Following the success of the brand’s debut model, the Opphav, the concept of designing watches for and inspired by Norwegian nature was retained but ratcheted up a gear (or several). A totally redesigned case that echoes the original but improves wearability (by dropping the diameter to a very versatile 39 mm), and readability (by shelving the floating dial design of the Opphav — for now — and reducing the dial aperture to make reading the time a more focused activity) was paired with a new integrated bracelet that steeply tapers from 24 mm down to just 18 mm at the clasp.
The balance on the wrist is superb, and means the Jan Mayen Collection can legitimately lay claim to being a true modern explorers watch, designed by them, for them. And if you haven’t seen the launch video for this collection that details the trials and tribulations the team endured as they literally sailed from Longyearbyen on Svalbard to the remote volcanic island of Jan Mayen (passing through an almost devastating storm in the process), in search of real-world inspiration for the dial patterns, you can check it out here.
Full disclosure: I was on that steel boat for more than ten days with the crew, covering the adventure as a live-in gonzo journalist, so I’m not exactly impartial. However, it convinced me of two things: the boys from Straum are willing to put their hard earned savings (and lives) on the line to make the best watch they possibly can and if the resulting saga isn’t proof that stories matter in the craft of watchmaking, I’m not sure what is.
