Controversial? Maybe. But isn’t it about time we talked about the top Rolex model to avoid (and why you might want to) rather than simply tooting the Crown’s horn at every opportunity?
Let me lay this out clearly: there isn’t a “bad” watch in Rolex's current catalogue. Rolex doesn’t make “bad” products. You might not like some of the current collection for myriad reasons (proportions, colourway, bracelet options etc.), but, as products, Rolex watches are pretty much beyond repute. They are built like tanks and tested to extremes by one of the most respected and streamlined production lines the watch world has ever seen.
Rolex GMT Master - Credit WatchGecko
However, there are some models in the current catalogue (some extremely popular models, too) that are due an update, a refresh, or a range expansion that should, in my opinion, give you pause when it comes to laying down your hard-earned cash.
If you’re desperate to buy tomorrow and none of the possibilities outlined below bother you in the slightest, go nuts. While the secondary market for Rolex is suffering, it is still more than healthy. That means that should you regret your purchase, you shouldn’t lose too much. I’m sure that will matter to some of you, but remember, the best way to buy watches is to never spend on them what you can’t afford to lose, because there are no guarantees, not even with the watches of the Crown.
Why you might want to think twice about buying the GMT Master-II (any of them but especially the Everose Rolesor “Root Beer”)
Rolex GMT Master - Credit WatchGecko
The Rolex GMT Master-II is a classic. Possibly the most famous Rolex in the world alongside the Rolesor DateJust 36, the Daytona, and the Oyster Perpetual. The Pepsi bezel’s return at Baselworld 2018 broke the internet and authorised dealers’ stock tracking systems have been traumatised ever since. It frequently ranks as one of the most desirable collections on the planet, so why would I compel you NOT to buy it right now? And why am I being especially harsh on the Everose Rolesor Root Beer, which just so happens to be my favourite reference (in theory)?
Well, there are three reasons, as I see it. One is technical, one is aesthetic, and one is cultural.
Rolex GMT Master - Credit WatchGecko
Firstly, the GMT Master-II is yet to receive the proportional update applied to the Submariner and Explorer II ranges. As such, it is more blockish and inelegant than it needs to be. I think almost everyone would welcome a general slimming down of the Rolex models that aren’t thicker by necessity. Will it happen? In my mind, it simply has to. And, if I were a betting man, I’d say it’s not too far away…
And then there’s the continued absence of the Coke bezel. This may not be a reason for you to wait at all, but it would at least be nice to see a modern Coke side-by-side with a modern Pepsi for comparison. Better still, if it were brought back to life in conjunction with a revision of proportions (and instantly made available on the Jubilee bracelet as well as the Oyster), we’d be right to expect a horological Mardi Gras spilling out on to the streets of Switzerland and beyond.
Rolex GMT Master - Credit Rolex
Lastly, do you really want the same watch as everybody else? I’m not sure if the GMT Master family has the same cachet it did when it was casually sported by the likes of Tom Selleck’s Magnum PI. It’s a great watch, a beauty for sure, but it’s also a little bit, “So what?”
Conversely, however, you may not care what anybody else thinks and simply adore this watch above all others. If that’s the case, you’re in the minority of GMT Master-II buyers. Mostly, this is seen as a watch that appeals to exactly the kind of people who DO care what other people think. Therefore if you’re in this niche camp, you do at least have a claim to be part of the most meta sub-sect of watch collectors out there. Which, now I think about it, IS kind of cool…
And then there’s the Everose Rolesor Root Beer (reference 126711CHNR). It’s gorgeous. A masterpiece of tones. I would have bought it already — chunky case and all — if only it had one other thing going for it.
Rolex GMT Master - Credit WatchGecko
The Jubilee bracelet. Rolex, unlike any other brand, is almost as famous for its bracelets as it is for its watch heads — the oft-copied Oyster Professional, the five-link Jubilee, the President, heck, even the Oysterflex gets props these days!
Why oh why is this, one of the most opulent models in the GMT Master-II line not available on the brand’s most iconic bracelet when so many other pieces in the same family are? Worse still, the majority of the precious metal models still don't feature it.
It used to be the case that the precious metal versions were all only offered on the Oyster bracelet. That included the two current white gold models (both the blue dial and the meteorite dial share the same 126719BLRO reference number), the Everose Root Beer (reference 126715CHNR), and the Everose Rolesor Root Beer (reference 126711CHNR).
However, with the addition of the yellow gold and yellow Rolesor references 126718GRNR and 126713GRNR respectively, both offered on the Jubilee, we’ve seen Rolex change tack. So why not when it comes to the rest of the precious metal alternatives?
It’s always been an unforgivable oversight in my opinion and quickly needs rectifying. If Rolex is willing to do that along with implementing the above changes, you’ll be happy you delayed pulling the trigger.
