Top 5 Microbrands at WindUp Watch Fair Chicago 2024

If you’ve been keeping up with WatchGecko Magazine, you’ll know that recently I’ve been a little fixated on microbrands. It all started with my Top 5 for National Watch Day which sent our comments into a frenzy as contributors vied to show their support for their personal favourites. The thing about Top 5’s is they’re naturally extremely limited and with so many fascinating, up and coming brands emerging through the industry’s ranks it’s impossible to show love to everyone every time. That’s exactly why I’ve been making it my mission to develop this Top 5 Microbrands series.

In honour of New York’s WindUp event earlier this year, I’ve already taken it upon myself to do a little research on the Top 5 American brands attending. From reworked pocket watches and collaborations with our favourite green cartoon frog, to watches inspired by some of my own favourite things: coffee and pizza, you can always find something captivating at a show as weird and wonderful as WindUp.

This time around it feels only right to check out the attendees of Chicago’s WindUp Watch Fair and see who amongst them might make up our Top 5 Microbrands.

Considering WatchGecko is a stockist for Elliot Brown, it’s no secret that we have a lot of love for the well-respected British brand. From their genuine military kit to collaborations with Mountain Rescue England & Wales and Land Rover, Elliot Brown always seem to be “doing things just a little better”. Brought to life in 2013 by Ian Elliot and Alex Brown, the duo behind Elliot Brown are outdoorsy by nature. Unafraid of the mess and knocks that salt water, sand and mud can throw at them, they have built their watches to keep up with the adventurous lifestyle they so enjoy.

Obviously, and deservedly, Elliot Brown have been hugely successful in their now over ten years of operation. You wouldn’t be wrong if you argued that they’d overshot their microbrand status by quite a way now, or are at least on the verge of doing so, but it just goes to show how far finesse and dedication can take you. 

Heading a little further afield now with Venezianico. The Italian company is led by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli who have earnt fans from war and wide thanks to their unique and distinctive designs which have been inspired by their own Venetian heritage. Drawing from the symbols of their community and using playful pops of colour, as well as traditional Venetian Istria stone, the team deliver strong yet thoughtful designs with plenty of personality. Another selling point is their affordability, with the brothers recognising that high quality watches needn’t cost the earth, they have opted to eliminate the non-essential in order to offer accessible models with a luxury feel.

It wouldn’t feel right to compile a Top 5 for WindUp without once again considering what the American brands in attendance bring to the table. Born in Texas, U.S.A, luxury men’s watch brand Jack Mason was established back in 2015 when men’s fashion watches became something of a trend. With founder’s Peter Cho and Craig Carter already having skin in the game, they decided to establish their own independent watch brand. Seeking to produce fashionable, good-looking watches without the need for fashion house affiliation, the duo set about trying to bring something more authentic and distinctive to the American market. They began touring the United States in a 1971 vintage airstream, finding fans along the way as well as a deeper familiarity with the country they were raised in.

By 2018 Jack Mason models had found their way into high-end department stores across the country but sensing a loss of control, Cho and Carter made the decision to return to their independence, exiting out of all retail partnerships and regaining control of branding once and for all in 2020. They’ve only continued to grow since then, evolving and perfecting their bestselling models over time in the name of preserving authentic American watchmaking. You can check out our Top 5 from WindUp NYC below to get a feel for more of the American brands making a name for themselves in the industry.

Metaphorically moving my pin across the map yet again, the final two spots on our Top 5 bring us into German territory. First up, Laco. The oldest brand in our list, Laco were founded back in 1925 and have passionately sought to honour the traditions of their company, and country, ever since. With nearly 100 years of rich company history behind them, Laco have been steadily perfecting their take on the popular pilot watch for a long time now. As a new millennium began, they relaunched these characteristic pilot offerings to the market and they haven’t looked back, instead they now focus on the continuous evolution of their watches for the modern customer. We’ve had plenty of Laco models in for review, including their popular Kempten Erbstück. 

You can check out the full video review below.

Connoisseurs of the purpose-built tool watch, Circula are now led by the third generation of the Huber family. Since 2018 helmsman Cornelius Huber has worked to bring the brand into the future, injecting a new energy into their core design and quality principles, Cornelius is confidently preparing the brand for continued success in the latter half the 21 ^st Century.

If you’d like to hear more about Circula’s releases, why not check out our hands-on review of the Aquasport II or the Circula ProTrail?