California dials divide watch lovers from far and wide. Some say they can’t make up their mind on what they want to be, and others (like myself) say that they have an alluring originality.
I’d go so far as to say I love a California dial. It adds something unique to a watch face. And even though there are two different types of numbers on show, it doesn’t look messy or overwhelming. It’s still elegant.
If you want to learn more about California dials, including where they come from, you’ve come to the right place. In this article, I’ll walk you through the ins and outs of California dials, including three of my top watches with this quirky design.
What is a California dial?
Boldr GMT Tarangire Automatic Field Watch - Credit Boldr
- Regular price
- $645.00 AUD
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$922.00 AUD - Sale price
- $645.00 AUD
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- $645.00 AUD
- Regular price
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$922.00 AUD - Sale price
- $645.00 AUD
- Unit price
- per
- Regular price
- $645.00 AUD
- Regular price
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$922.00 AUD - Sale price
- $645.00 AUD
- Unit price
- per
A California dial combines Roman and Arabic numerals on the watch face. The Roman numerals sit on the top half of the dial, while the Arabic numerals are at the bottom. Take a look at the Boldr GMT Tarangire Automatic Field Watch as an example.
They’re different from any other watch face out there, which is why they’re so appealing (or unappealing) to watch enthusiasts across the globe.
Where does the name ‘California dial’ come from?
Fears Brunswick 40 Black Topper Edition - Credit Fears
To be honest, no one really knows the answer to this question. One of the common theories dates back to the 30s and 40s, claiming that California dials were produced for combat divers needing high visibility and easy recognition. This is where it got the common nickname "error-proof dial".
Another theory (which is unfounded, but fun to mention) is that the California dial was created as a sample watch. A watchmaker showed the dual design to a client so they could choose the style they preferred. They never made a decision, and the rest is history!
Unimatic U2-H - Credit Unimatic
Despite the uncertainty of its origin, Rolex is credited as the original maker of this design. They patented it in 1942 for “high visibility underwater.” The different styles make it easy to determine the time, which is helpful when divers are submerged.
Most California dials also feature luminescent hands and numbers, another helpful feature for the dark depths of deep-water diving.
Isotope Hydrium California Watch - Credit Isotope
My top 3 watches with modern California dials
Here are some of my top California dial timepieces, based solely on my personal preferences. If there are others you’d recommend, add them in the comments below. I’d love to know of any other California dials worth putting on the list!
3. Isotope Hydrium California Watch
The Isotope Hydrium California timepiece is a modern dive watch with a unique look and feel. The grainy black dial almost creates a matte effect, ensuring the glow-in-the-dark Arabic and Roman numerals catch your eye.
Isotope Hydrium California Watch - Credit Isotope
Isotope redesigned its diving bezel for this model, specifically to give it more of a vintage vibe. It’s divided into five-minute segments, which works well on a watch face with two different number types! It provides a cleaner look, preventing the watch face from looking too busy.
2. Timex Marlin Automatic California Dial Watch
Timex Marlin Automatic California Dial - Credit Timex
I have quite slender wrists, so I appreciate any timepiece that doesn’t overbear my arm. With a delicate 40mm case diameter and 13mm case height, the Timex Marlin® Automatic California Dial Watch shines in this area.
The neutral colour palette adds a touch of modernity and elegance, while still maintaining a classic and vintage feel. The watch also has a 21-jewel automatic movement, paying homage to the craftsmanship and skill of traditional watchmaking.
1. Boldr Ranger Upepo Automatic Field Watch
The Boldr Ranger Upepo Automatic Field Watch is another 40mm winner on my list. But the main reason I love this timepiece is the story behind it. It’s part of Boldr’s Safari collection, which pays homage to the diverse wildlife and tough conservationists at work across Africa.
Boldr Ranger Upepo Automatic Field Watch - Matt Khaki California Dial - Credit Boldr
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- $412.00 AUD
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- $666.00 AUD
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With an NH35A automatic movement and a 316L stainless steel case, this watch is built for adventure. Paired with a robust and adjustable brown nylon strap, you’re in for a world of comfort on any adventure with this timepiece.
Would you add a California dial to your collection?
Ultimately, the choice of a California dial comes down to personal preference. If you like the quirky design and it resonates with your style, it can be a great choice for your watch collection. If you can’t wrap your head around the split numerals, that’s fine too.
Let me know what you think about California dials in the comments below!
