It seems there’s no end to the discussion posts like this can muster. There are, quite understandably, stark differences of opinion at every price point. “How can you forget about…”, “It’s crazy not to mention…”, “Whatever this guy was smoking when he wrote this, I want some,” etcetera, etcetera. The truth is, that’s the goal. This isn’t a factual list of the Best British Watch Brands. It isn’t backed up by consistent data points from price level to price level. It’s an opinion piece, conceived to inspire debate. Saying that, however, I’ve taken it rather seriously and would happily defend any of the below picks in the comments section below, so, if you think I’m barking mad, let me know!
Alkin
The sub-£500 bracket
I first encountered Alkin at a pre-COVID Watch It All About! fair in Rugby, organised by the ever-affable Joshua Clare-Flagg who now runs 12&60 . I went back and re-read my review of that event on aBlogtoWatch.com and was amazed to see not only how positive my impression of Alkin had been at the time, but also how much the brand seemed to resonate with ABTW’s readers in the comment section. After reading through the opinions, my mind was made up: Alkin is the best British watch brand for pieces (just) under £500.
Studio Underd0g
Up to £1,000
It would be impossible not to mention Studio Underd0g on any list of the best British watch brands. The only question for me was which price bracket to put them in! Remember, I’m placing these brands where I think either the bulk of their collection sits, at the point its most desirable and definitional model sits, or where I expect the most activity in the coming years.
For SU, the natural home would seem to be in the sub-£1,000 bracket, as the vast majority of the brand’s wares retail there, including the seagull-powered chronographs that made the brand’s name, and the Series02 follow-up that joined the line last year.
However, the latest release — the Swiss-made-movement-powered Chronograph currently available in two iterations, one unlimited Salmon-inspired dial, and one as part of a two-watch box-set limited edition created with H. Moser & Cie. — sits a tick above founder Richard Benc’s usual fare and looks to stretch the collection upwards, towards a higher-end average price (or at least that’s what one would assume).
I love this move (and the Series03 watch) as I think it elevates the entry point of the brand. I still believe that the Series01 will thrash the other two models in terms of raw sales volume. Still, the more-expensive-but-still-very-affordable-for-what-it-is Series 03 should rightfully become the new “ambassador” for the brand, showcasing Rich’s tongue-in-cheek take on watch design and his refined ability to bring it to life in a high-quality product.
Anoma
Up to £2,000
I recently wrote an article entitled Top 5 British Watches in 2024 . However, crucial to understanding the premise of that article was its original title: Top 5 British Watches in 2024 Available Right Now. The key distinction here is obviously watches from six-figure makers would at least feature on such a list, but since you can’t buy them in 2024, I left them out.
Anoma was one of the brands I featured. It’s amazing. If you don’t know it, check them out. However, since the previous article mentioning this up-and-coming design prodigy went live, the Anoma A1 has sold out. You’d better sign up for that waiting list...
Fears
Up to £5,000
Another brand that offered up one of the best British watches available right now was Fears. I added the Brunswick Copper Salmon to my run-down but if I’d written the article today, I would have included the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Coral Lacquer instead. It’s perfection and my favourite Fears watch released so far.
Although that might be about to be topped later this year...
Schofield
Up to £10,000
The Obscura. It’s the only watch in Schofield’s catalogue that would command almost 10K and it is worth every penny. Giles Ellis, the brand’s Principal Keeper (owner/founder to normal folk), has been working on the idea for the Obscura for about ten years. Painstakingly, over that time, he’s pulled together a design like nothing else and yet, somehow, it remains quintessentially Schofield.
Ben Rousseau
Up to £25,000
This isn’t a watchmaker (yet), but rather a clockmaker, who is turning out some eye-catching stuff. Ben Rousseau displayed during the British Watchmakers’ Day in March this year and certainly made an impression on me. The best model in his core collection is, in my opinion, The Arsenale special (which retails for just £11,999).
However, the custom section is the cave in which you’ll find the treasure! Ben can create all kinds of things for your living room, office, or even bedroom wall. The only limit, it would seem, is your own imagination. Here’s where you blow the rest of your budget, getting something life-altering for your home rather than your wrist.
Garrick
Up to £50,000
There aren’t many watchmakers like Garrick in the UK and even fewer that occupy this mid-high level price bracket. The cheapest models are under 10K but the priciest are more like 50! Still, everything is well worth it, with my favourite piece the customisable S6.
Charles Frodsham
Between £50,000 and £100,000
Okay, I might have cheated a little bit here. I’ve subbed out the “Up to £75,000” bracket to allow for the inclusion of a watch that just sneaks in under 100K. Why? Because while we all know which brands will occupy the highest price bracket on this list, Frodsham desperately deserves more recognition for the sumptuous work being performed by the brand.
Every element is divine. While movement layout and design is subjective, this engine is, for me, not just quintessentially English, but also, quite simply, perfection. There isn’t a single thing I would change about it. The dial side, while less visually arresting, is a masterpiece. The execution of the enamel, the pad printing, and the cutting and blueing of those applied Western Arabic numerals is, in a word, peerless. If you’ve never seen one in real life, make the effort to do so. This kind of quality can’t be communicated by words or digital images alone. It needs to be felt in the hands and by the heart in the metal. You won’t regret it.
Roger Smith
Over £100,000
Of course! It has to be Roger. So famous, he can be identified by his first name alone (just like a certain tennis player who hails from another country that is half decent at making watches).
Smith’s story is the most inspiring of his generation. A modern master, he trained at the knee of the late, great George Daniels, whose lifelong obsession with “the Daniels method”, which requires a single artisan to master all of the identified crafts required to make a watch from start to finish, left us with some of the finest mechanical testaments to human endeavour, ingenuity, and skill.
Roger has continued George’s legacy and, many would say by now, surpassed his mentor in pure ability. While Roger W. Smith watches share certain aesthetic traits with Daniels’ famous pieces, the execution and refinement of what Roger and his team can produce is stunning.
The only problem? Getting one! Watches tend to be sold out many years in advance and there aren’t any serious plans to boost production to meet demand. This is real art — real horological art. It takes time, ironically, but, as they say, good things come to those who wait.