Here at WatchGecko we pride ourselves on stocking a vast and versatile range of high-quality leather replacement watch straps. Whether you’re looking for an affordable option or something that oozes premium quality to rival other high-end and luxury retailers, we’re certain you’ll find the right fit in our leather collection.
The only thing is, with so much to choose from, how do you know which of our straps are right for you? In this series, we’ll be breaking down our collection and giving you all the information you need to make an informed decision about your next leather watch strap purchase. Dissecting the many leather types, colours and styles that the WatchGecko Store carries, we’re here to ensure you feel confident when browsing and selecting your new favourite strap.
In this article, we’ll be answering all of your questions about our Horween leather watch straps. Specifically, you might be wondering…
Frequently Asked Questions about Horween leather
What types of Horween leather are there?
There are many different types of Horween leather and although each one is popular for use when manufacturing different products, all types of Horween leather are celebrated for their craftsmanship, durability, and aesthetic appeal.
The types of Horween leather most commonly used for making watch straps are:
Chromexcel (CXL)
- Process : Full-grain leather, hot-stuffed with oils and greases during the tanning process.
- Characteristics : A rugged leather with a rich patina that comes in a range of weights and can be dyed in many colours. Smooth, supple, with a rich pull-up effect (colour variation when flexed).
Shell Cordovan
- Process: Made from the fibrous flat muscle (the shell) found in horsehide, requiring six months of tanning.
- Characteristics: Extremely smooth, dense, non-creasing leather with a glossy finish.
Dublin
- Process: Vegetable-tanned, full-grain leather with a wax finish.
- Characteristics: Darker surface colour, pronounced grain pattern, firm feel, and waxy finish that develops patina over time.
Essex
- Process: Vegetable-tanned leather using the same liquors as Shell Cordovan but from cowhide.
- Characteristics: Softer than many other Horween leathers, flexible, with a smooth surface and rich texture.
Derby
- Process : Similar to Dublin, but the leather undergoes a tumbling process.
- Characteristics : Natural texture, softer feel, with a more pronounced grain.
Where is Horween leather made?
The WatchGecko Horween leather straps are produced from Horween Chromexcel® leather which is traditionally manufactured in the US. Characterised by rich pull-up and hand-rubbed finishes, this old-world craftmanship has been passed down through generations and is renowned for producing exceptional quality leathers that withstand the test of time.
How is Horween leather made?
Horween leathers are made from a variety of animal hides including cowhide, bison hide and most commonly horse hide. The Genuine Horween Chromexcel® Watch Strap (and the V-Stitch variation) are both produced from premium Horween Chromexcel leather creating an incredibly supple and tactile strap that achieves the perfect vintage look without fragility. Characterised by rich pull-up and hand-rubbed finishes, this strap will naturally patina as time goes on, allowing the leathers natural characteristics to shine through.
Our Horween Chromexcel® leather straps are the perfect choice for those looking for a premium modern strap with authentic vintage charm. Each strap in our Horween collection is finished with a cut edge that has been sealed with colour-matched paint to not only ensure a seamless finish but also resistance to moisture penetration for improved durability.
Why is Horween leather so expensive?
Horween leather is considered special and often commands higher prices due to a combination of factors related to its craftsmanship, quality, and heritage.
Horween uses old-world, labor-intensive tanning methods, many of which have remained unchanged for over a century. Using a meticulous tanning process that involves vegetable tanning, stuffing with oils and waxes, and polishing. This slow, handcrafted process involves skilled artisans rather than automated machines and ensures that each piece is unique and of the highest quality, this contributes to a high-end final product but also an increased cost.
The manufacturing of Horween leather requires top-quality hides, primarily full-grain and top-grain leathers, which are the most durable and luxurious parts of the hide. Horween even uses specific hides like horsehide for Shell Cordovan, which are rarer and more difficult to work with.
Horween leather is known for its strength, durability, and ability to age beautifully. Products made from Horween leather develop a rich patina over time, becoming more attractive with age, this longevity means that even though the upfront cost is higher, the leather can last decades, making it a worthwhile investment.
How does Horween leather age?
Horween leather is known for aging beautifully, developing a rich patina and character over time. Its aging process is one of the key reasons why it is so prized, especially for products like footwear, bags, wallets, and watch straps. Chromexcel in particular is known for its natural oils and waxes, which give it a distinctive “pull-up” quality. This means that the color lightens when the leather is flexed or bent, but returns to its original state when pressure is released. As it ages, Chromexcel develops a deep, rich patina, with more pronounced color variation and a unique sheen. The leather also tends to soften with use, becoming more pliable while still retaining its structure.
How to take care of Horween leather?
Caring for Horween leather properly will help preserve its appearance, enhance its patina, and extend its life. Different types of Horween leather require slightly different care routines, but the general principles remain the same: cleaning, conditioning, and protecting the leather from excessive moisture, heat, and harsh chemicals.
Just like any other leather strap, Horween requires TLC to keep it in good condition for quality that lasts, but because of its high oil content, Chromexcel has the benefit of being naturally self-healing. Minor scratches and scuffs can be rubbed out by applying pressure or light heat, as the oils redistribute within the leather and over time, the surface will become smoother and glossier.
You can check out our handy guide here to find out how to look after, clean, and prolong the life of your new leather strap.
Is Horween leather waterproof?
Horween leather is not inherently waterproof, but many types are water-resistant to varying degrees, depending on the specific leather and its treatment. Whilst we don’t recommend you take your Horween leather strap diving, Chromexcel has a high oil and wax content, which does give it a degree of water resistance. While it can handle some exposure to water, it is not fully waterproof, but though can cause temporary darkening of the leather, the oils and waxes will naturally help to protect it from absorbing too much moisture.
It's recommended to wipe off excess water after exposure and let your watch strap air dry. In our leather care guide you can find out how to apply leather conditioner or waterproofing treatments to enhance the water resistance of your replacement watch strap.
Is Horween leather sustainable?
Many Horween leather products are vegetable-tanned, which is an eco-friendly process compared to chrome tanning. Vegetable tanning takes longer, as it uses natural materials like tree bark, but it results in a leather that is biodegradable and non-toxic, increasing both the cost and value. Vegetable-tanned leather is also more biodegradable and less harmful to the environment at the end of its life cycle than chrome-tanned leather because it does not contain heavy metals like chromium.
One of the most sustainable aspects of Horween leather is its durability. High-quality leathers like Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel can last for decades, reducing the need for replacements and minimizing waste. The longer a product lasts, the lower its overall environmental impact compared to disposable or lower-quality goods. As Horween leather ages well and develops a desirable patina, consumers are less likely to discard or replace these products, contributing to sustainability through longevity
In summary, the high cost of Horween leather reflects its exceptional quality, artisanal craftsmanship, rarity, and durability. It’s a material that caters to those who value heritage, longevity, and the unique beauty that comes with owning a piece of leather that will age gracefully over time. Horween leather is renowned for its exceptional quality, endurance, and ability to develop a beautiful patina over time. While it requires proper care to maintain its appearance, the investment of time and attention ensures that these leather products will age gracefully and last for decades.
By following a few simple care routines—cleaning, conditioning, protecting against moisture, and regular brushing—you can preserve the natural beauty and longevity of Horween leather. Whether it's Chromexcel, Shell Cordovan, or any other Horween variety, proper maintenance will enhance its character and make it a timeless piece in your collection.
You can check out the full Horween Leather Collection on WatchGecko here and if you have any questions, please drop them in the comments below.
