Top 10 New Releases for Geneva Watch Days 2024

This week we’ve seen some of the most exciting watch brands in the game make their pilgrimage once again to the horological hub that is Geneva, Switzerland. The Geneva edition of Watches and Wonders passed us by in the Spring of this year, meaning this time around the occasion could only be Geneva Watch Days. Taking place from Thursday 29^th August to Monday 2^nd September, Geneva Watch Days ushers in an impressive suite of over fifty luxury watch brands and amongst them we’ve already seen some pretty exciting novelties unveiled by brands like DOXA and Oris.

As one of the watch world’s busiest periods, it’s safe to say we’ve been spoilt with release after release from this year’s show and, luckily for us (unlike with children) watches do allow for favourites. The line-up has been staggering but I’ve had plenty of time to pore over the details of each release and am more than happy to present you with a concise round-up of the very best novelties for Geneva Watch Days 2024.

At the very top of my radar is the new blue aventurine glass limited edition Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 38 Red Gold. Decorated for the first time in blue aventurine, the limited reference will be made available on a run of just 88 pieces. Seeing as I’m not quite lucky enough to have a spare CHF 36,700 knocking about in my purse, it’s unlikely that I’ll be the recipient of one of those limited edition pieces but, ‘money no object’, it sure makes a pretty addition to my wish list. Housed in the 18-carat red gold (5N) 38mm case we’re already familiar with from the Perpetual Moon collection, the two new references (the other appears with a more subtle sunray-brushed “cliff grey” dial) are equipped with the A&S1612 hand-wound mechanical movement which maintains a 90-hour power reserve and water resistance to 100 feet.

Onto something now that I don’t think a single one of us were expecting, Project Passion, a collaboration between prestigious Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g, one of Britain’s hottest modern microbrands. A fruity collaboration between these two brands was certainly not on my 2024 bingo card but, like anything else Richard Benc (CEO of Underd0g) seems to magic up, it just works.

Fruity, fun and flavourful, the watches are a limited edition release of just 100 pieces and are to be sold as the ‘Project Passion’ set. Though each watch is unmarred by a visible logo on the dial, they are distinctively recognisable as belonging to their respective brands and the milestone collaboration is a first for the Brighton-based team behind Studio Underd0g who have, until now, shied away from partnering with any other watchmaker.

In celebration of their 140 ^th anniversary, Breitling unveiled new, limited variations of its three flagship models, all equipped with the revolutionary Caliber B19, the brands first ever perpetual calendar chronograph movement. The historic Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140 ^th Anniversary Edition stands out as a firm favourite in my eyes.

Originally released in1952, the Navitimer was the first pilots watch to combine a chronograph function with a circular slide rule flight computer and just ten years after its launch it became the first Swiss wristwatch to go to space. Arguably an extremely appropriate model to makeover as Breitling celebrate their birthday with a “year of firsts”. The new edition maintains its famous slide rule in black on an 18ct red-gold dial, as well as featuring a full calendar and moonphase which can run for nearly a century without interruption. Limited Anniversary Editions are also available for the Premier B19 Datora 42 as well as the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar.

Among the weird and wonderful I often find myself craving just a little bit of normalcy. To me at least, neutral doesn’t have to mean boring, sometimes understated simplicity is the most charming of all. That’s where Alpina come in, sneaking in halfway down my list their Heritage Automatic faithfully restores the aesthetics of the 1920s and 1940s with its 38mm steel case, dauphine hands and a classic pin buckle-fastened leather strap. Available in either beige with 12 numbers in Arabic or a version with satin-finish grey hour circle, alternating bronze-coloured hour markers and Arabic numerals, the Heritage Automatic is equipped with the AL-520 calibre, 38-hour power reserve and automatic winding. The new additions are the first round timepieces to join the Alpina Heritage series and with them they bring a touch of minimalist urban elegance that I’m unwilling to deny.

Once again proving that simple can be stylish, Frederique Constant swooped in with a somewhat unexpected affordable alternative for the revered Cartier Tank. Stealing the show for its relatively low price point (starting from £795) as well as its handsomely classic good looks, the Carrée Small Seconds is available in three versions; one fully set with diamonds, a second housed in 100% steel case with matching strap and the third, my personal favourite, a refined edition with steel case and leather strap. Each reference is equipped with a quartz movement which offers a 24 month battery life, large Roman numerals, a silver-finish dial with two central hands and a small off-centre seconds hand above the sector style minute track. As understated as it is, given its straight edges and unavoidable ties to the popular Cartier Tank, this might just be the new cool kid on the block.

Upping the ante again now as we return to the sparklier side of the Geneva Watch Days releases, Czapek brought a fresh twist to their sporty-chic Antarctique and Antarctique S models by dressing them up with new aventurine dials. Now, this isn’t the first time aventurine has featured on this list or in fact the first time it has featured within Czapek’s catalogue, but personally, I’m yet to tire of it.

Having previously used the sparkling aventurine glass for their Quai de Bergues and Faubourg de Cracovie models, it makes good sense that the Antarctique range would be next to get the night-sky treatment. The new Antarctique offerings are presented as four limited editions, two of which are 40.5mm and the other two are 38.5mm references, one of each with and without diamond indices. In this case, diamond’s aren’t a girls best friend and the souped up indices are a little flashy for my tastes but I’m more than happy for the toned down Polar Sky rendition to sit at number seven on my list.

Balancing craftily between traditional and modern, the Classic Auto takes the sophisticated elegance of Laurent Ferrier’s Classic collection and skilfully blends it with the more rugged elements of their Sport Auto collection. Equipped with the robust automatic calibre LF 270.01 designed for the brands sport models, the Classic Auto maintains the iconic round pebble-shaped case of the Classics that came before it. Presented in stainless steel with eye-catching copper tones on the dial, the Classic Auto Sandstone makes for a stunning vintage-inspired daily beater with an extra touch of adventure not to be underestimated. 

If you’re scratching your head wondering how I think I’m going to get away with naming three watches for the final spot on this Top 10, I wouldn’t blame you. But, as this list is of my own making, I’ll use that privilege to break the rules just this once. When considering who the final place would go to, I couldn’t quite shake the feeling that to only choose one of my now final three, would mean missing out on a couple of really cool watches (and I mean really cool).

Granted, the Horologer MING 20.01 Series 3, Ressence Type 3 BB2 and Girard-Perregaux’s Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges are all completely different, but at the same time they might just be as bonkers as each other. They're kind of unwearable and to most are equal parts unattainable, but in this instance it feels like part of the fun. These are the kind of watches that need to be seen to be believed and each of these models brings something completely unique to the floor at Geneva Watch Days, showcasing possibly the best of what each brand can do.