There are a small handful of names associated with the watch industry who beg you to take notice. They are more than giants; they define the watch industry and have had an almost incalculable impact on its history. One such name is Jean-Claude Biver. He has been at the heart of the global watch-making industry for over fifty years, and now, with his son, Pierre, he has established his brand to craft the highest form of horology.
The 2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater is the purest form of testimony to the man's skill, and while we may always associate him and large brands like Omega, this latest Biver creation cements his prowess as an individual master-watchmaker.
Whilst journalists like to play with words, it is sometimes better to leave the introduction and ethos of a timepiece creation to the man himself; "A watch transcends mere objecthood; it is not just a collection of moving parts. It embodies a desire, ambition, and conviction. It represents both an abstract vision and a concrete accomplishment. A watch is a personal notion that seamlessly integrates with the wearer. Our philosophy is to bring out the soul of each watch."
Let's look at the 2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater, which is limited to ten pieces.
Biver quite rightly works on the principle that the dial of a watch defines its style. It is, after all, the interface which links us to the product. Two versions of the new creation are referred to as the Obsidian and Mother-of-Pearl.
2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater - Credit Biver
The Obsidian is black, which stands out from the rose gold case. The Mother-of-Pearl is, by contrast, light, which is offset against the finest titanium. Both watches are technically the same in both capability and dimensions, with a case size of 42 mm and a height of 13.70 mm. The movement is, of course, an equally unique creation – the JCB-001 calibre with micro-rotor winding. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) with an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
Pierre Biver explains,
"Our Carillon Tourbillon….represents a sporty neo-classical interpretation of the minute repeater. Given our commitment to custom-made excellence, we aimed to broaden the spectrum of choices for the final (10) pieces by adopting a more formal look, apt for evening occasions. In this spirit, we're presenting two dials featuring distinctive guilloché patterns and baguette diamond indexes with a novel cut, complemented by leather straps,".
Both watches have a hand-crafted guilloché pattern in concentric geometry. For those unfamiliar with guilloché, it is a decorative technique with a precise, highly detailed repetitive pattern. On the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater, the guilloché design is concentrically executed around the tourbillon, ensuring that no two curves are identical.
2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater - Credit Biver
Additionally the dials have baguette cut of the diamond indices and a beautiful flat area within the central pattern, designed to host each gold letter of the Biver inscription.
As you would expect from Biver, no attention to detail has been missed. The strap selection has been as crucial to the creative team as the watch. On the titanium white dial model Biver has used Alcantara. This has a velvety texture and almost mineral quality in its grey tone. For the rose gold variant, a grey strap has also been used, but this time, it is water buffalo leather chosen for its rarity, strength, and durability and to holistically complete a blend of luxury and functionality.
2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater - Credit Biver
For those lucky enough to secure one of these 10 watches, you will have the opportunity to customise your personal model further in consultation with Mr. Beaver and his son. Whilst the fundamentals of the watch will remain unchanged, the cases have been thoughtfully designed to allow a small degree of personalisation.
Of course, all of this luxury begs the question as to how much these watches actually cost, and as one might predict, they are extremely expensive. If you're planning to secure one, then you will need to find £491,310.00 (560,000 CHF) for the version with the mother-of-pearl dial and baguette diamond indexes in the titanium case and £522,732.00 (630,000 CHF) for the version with the silvered black obsidian dial and baguette diamond indexes in the rose gold case.
2024 Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater - Credit Biver
There is no question that these are eye-watering amounts of money; however, when you buy such exclusivity and craftsmanship from arguably one of the greatest living watchmakers of all time, the prices almost come into perspective.
These watches will be available in April at the Geneva Watch Week event.
