Oris is back, once again proving that you can still have fun while making serious, functional watches, launching the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch. The colour-changing dial marks a first for the world for horology, created using an innovative lasering technique. But don’t let the iridescence display fool you, this is still a serious piece of titanium-engineered kit with their 5-day Calibre 400 movement at its core.
The Playful ProPilot X
If there’s one thing I’ll always commend Oris for, it’s how they have fun with their designs. Their ProPilot X collection in particular has become something of an experimental playground for the Holstein-based watchmaker. These robust, titanium pilot’s watches are mighty in their specs but are often paired with unconventional dial colours to keep things interesting.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 - Credit WatchGecko
The original Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 line-up debuted in the spring of 2022 and featured dials in muted grey, blue and coral pink. The latter being the most distinguishable and a far cry from any other dial colour seen before from Oris. Then came the Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition, arguably the most notable watch release of the past year. With its lime green face and unique date window which reveals Kermit’s smiling face on the first of every month, this novelty perfectly epitomises Oris’ ability to have fun will still providing a good-looking, functional timepiece.
The new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch is no different. It combines the robust titanium architecture of the pilot’s watch with an unmissable, shimmering dial produced using a laser technique never used in watchmaking before.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition - Credit WatchGecko
The Shimmering Dial of the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
Working in collaboration with a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university, Oris has developed an innovative lasering process to create the dial of the ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch. If you can believe it, there’s not a single pigment of colour used on the display. Instead, it has been created on the principles of biomimicry, specifically a phenomenon found in nature called optical interference. You know when you blow bubbles, and you can often see glimmers of purple and green within the transparent orb, it’s exactly the same principle.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser - Credit Oris
The unique phenomena removes red light waves and instead reflects and exemplifies blue and green waves. So when it comes to the dial of the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch, the laser technique manipulates the titaniumsurface to split the light into its components, creating a stunning rainbow effect that changes depending on your viewing angle.
The logo, indices, minutes track and dial text have also been created using another laser process which delivers a three-dimensional effect. It’s a rather ingenious addition, and cleverly blends together the finish of the iridescence backdrop while still providing decent levels of legibility. The hours, minutes and seconds hands are kept in polished silver but add in darkened inserts of Superluminova to match the rest of the lasered hardware. You may have noticed the date window is also missing, keeping all your attention on the laser-engraved display.
The Case & Movement
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser - Credit Oris
Beyond the dial, the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser presents all the familiar specs of the ProPilot X collection. It is entirely engineered from titanium, including the 39mm wide case, knurled bezel, three-row link bracelet and screw in security crown. The case back is also titanium, but like the front end, provides an insert of sapphire crystal glass for a view of the movement inside. The front crystal is domed and treated to anti-reflective coating on the inside. There’s also a 100 metre water resistance.
The movement is the Oris Calibre 400, their game-changing automatic winding, in-house calibre with a whopping 5-day power reserve. It demands better-than-chronometer accuracy, high levels of anti-magnetism and comes with a 10-year warranty. It’s nice knowing if you were to purchase the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch today, you’d be covered and wouldn’t need it servicing until 2033.
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser - Credit Oris
The Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser watch has been launched as part of this year’s Dubai Watch Week 2023 and is available to order at a retail price of CHF 4,800.
Technical Specifications:
- Brand: Oris
- Model: ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser
- Price: CHF 4,800
- Material: Titanium
- Movement: Oris Calibre 400, automatic, in-house
- Complications: Hours, minutes, seconds
- Dial: Laser-engraved titanium
- Size: 39mm wide
- When the reviewer would personally wear it: I’ve always admired the ProPilot X collection, and this is another stunning addition that I’d willingly wear day to day.
- A friend we’d recommend it to first: A lover of Oris’ playful side.
- Best characteristics of the watch: The laser-engraved dial looks beautiful, but I’d definitely like to see it in person to make a proper judgement.
- The worst characteristics of the watch: It’s hard to berate a watch of this quality at this price.
