If you are a Secret Service officer preparing to go on a mission, do not be surprised if you get issued with a Vertex M60 Aqualion. In what is possibly the best box opening experience ever, cracking out the Aqualion feels like you are being issued with Q-Branch equipment.
While Vertex is synonymous with its connection to the World War 2 Dirty Dozen collection, they have provided military specification dive watches since the 1950s. The M60 takes this heritage, builds on it, and presents us with a vintage style yet thoroughly modern ISO 6425 spec dive watch with an edge.
Vertex M60 - Credit WatchGecko
Vertex Underwater History
The name Aqualion and the corresponding symbol, a mythical half-lion, half-fish creature, traces its history back to the early 1900s when Don Cochrane's grandfather first created the watch brand name Dreadnought. Sadly, that dramatic name is protected elsewhere now. However, Don, the current family owner, has managed to secure rights to the accompanying lion logo and can freely emblazon his watches. In a further nod to his grandfather, all serial numbers of the new M60 are prefixed with FN standing for "Fear Nothing", the literal deciphering of Dreadnought.
Having re-animated the Vertex brand in 2015, Don has systematically been creating stunning watches with superior build quality and modern innovative design that pays homage to the original models that forged the legend.
Unboxing the M60 Aqualion
The market has plenty of robust dive watches to choose from. Less so models certified to COSC accuracy standards and ISO 6425. For those unfamiliar with this ISO, it offers the chance to qualify under top-tier specs for professional underwater watches. The Vertex Aqualion ticks both boxes, so if these criteria are essential, the M60 already has a head start on many Swiss Giants.
The M60 is presented in a genuine Peli Case (Codename: RUCK), which is indestructible and buoyant. It looks and feels like a case that should contain a Plutonium Core sphere in our spy movie. The inner padding is bespoke and perfectly carved to reveal the watch on its steel bracelet with slots for the COSC certificate and a letter from Vertex HQ, in old typewriter font signed off by Don. Much as this note is lovely, it is slightly disappointing that the letter does not turn out to be SECRET orders. Under the padded tray for the watch is another cut tray which contains high-quality rubber and military nylon straps, spare spring bars, links, a branded strap-changing tool and a bound manual which gives essential watch data and operating instructions. The M60 packaging is first-class and flawless in both execution and quality.
The Watch Itself.
Vertex M60 - Credit WatchGecko
As we experienced with the Dirty Dozen style M100, the build quality and fit on the M60 Aqualion are superb, with the watch instantly feeling robust and highly capable. The finish is purposeful, with very few polished areas, giving it a no-nonsense tool look, which one assumes Vertex had intended and was keen to foster. Sizing is modest, which is welcome, with an easily manageable diameter of 40mm, 14mm thickness and lug-to-lug of just 49mm.
The colouring is subdued, which fits with the military ethos. The bezel is a scratch-resistant matte black ceramic, and the dial matches this finish. Box sapphire crystal gives a vintage look, and the bold 12, 3, 6, and 9 numerals stand out and support the military feel.
Vertex M60 - Credit WatchGecko
Take a closer look at the numerals and batons which form part of the dial, and you are treated to a Vertex signature design element. Both are three-dimensional Super Luminova X1 shapes, which are precision cut and applied to the dial. They pop out of the dial, giving a superb aesthetic and low-light display. The hands are a type of homage to the sword hands of 1950s UK Special Forces watches and are generously filled with bright green X1.
Powering our M60 ND (no date) is a COSC Certified Selitta SW300-1, a mirror image of the ETA 2892-A2. It offers 42 hours of power and bi-directional winding. As there is no date, there is no phantom crown position. You will find this high-quality movement in watches like the Sinn U50.
Vertex M60 - Credit WatchGecko
The watch is waterproof to 600 meters, which is about as capable as anyone could ever realistically need, and more importantly, it is ISO 6425 certified. Many brands see no value in this; however, if you talk to a professional diver (and we have), they have a very different view. 6425 certification requires the watch to be submerged underwater for two days before it is placed on a heat plate and brought up to just over 100 degrees C and then finally tested with a drop of water on the crystal for one minute to ensure no condensation forms. Over-pressure water resistance is tested, requiring the watch to withstand 25% more pressure than is stated in the manufacturer's specification. Long-term resistance to salt water is also assessed to ensure no oxidation occurs. Shock resistance equivalent of a one metre drop onto a hardwood floor, such as a boat deck, is punishment subjected to every watch. Finally, the spring bars are tested to 200 Newtons of pressure to ensure that this most critical part will not disappoint you at the worst possible moment.
We have established that the M60 is a tough watch, but how does it wear?
Solidly would be the first impression. As with all Vertex watches, there is an overwhelming sensation that this model is incapable of letting you down no matter where you take it. Perhaps it is subconscious, thanks to the extensive testing, but there's an overwhelming sensation of durability with the M60.
With its exemplary build standard and price point of just £2850, the M60 makes an attractive option if a Rolex Submariner or a Breitling SuperOcean is out of your price range. Arguably it is more unusual than either of these giants of the dive world, making the M60 a sensible choice.
More than its impeccable technical characteristics the M60 draws on an enviable heritage, and when you consider the size of Vertex against huge brands like Rolex, it is quite an achievement. Of course, very few brands can boast of being members of the exclusive Dirty Dozen club, and somehow, this DNA has crept into a dive watch which should bear no relation to the World War 2 original model. The bottom line is the M60 is a superior dive watch which lacks nothing from a technical perspective.
Vertex M60 Technical Specifications:
- Brand: Vertex
- Model: M60
- Price: £2850
- Material: Stainless steel with some ceramic. Straps in steel, nylon and rubber.
- Movement: COSC Certified Selitta SW300-1. 42 hours of power reserve, 28,800 vph, bi-directional winding.
- Complications: Hours, minutes. Date model available
- When the reviewer would personally wear it: On a secret mission or failing that almost every day no matter what you are doing. This is a very versatile watch that has compelling looks. Trust us, in “watch-world” people will notice it.
- A friend we'd recommend it to first: Someone who wants a quality dive watch but is struggling to afford, or cannot justify, an Omega, Rolex or Breitling. Someone who wants a dive watch more unique and rugged than an Oris Aquis and with higher internal spec than a Helm.
- The best characteristics of the watch: ISO 6425 certification gives real confidence and the Vertex trademark 3D lume numerals are amazing.
- The worst characteristics of the watch: Nothing major. We would have perhaps preferred to see genuine sword hands and were slightly curious about how expensive the amazing packing adds to the overall price.
