While you may baulk at the idea of a Rolex being classified as a “Beginners” watch, it’s actually the perfect brand to start with if you’re able to afford one. Why? Because a Rolex is, more than most if not all watches, ideal as a one-watch collection (and that line of thinking will greatly inform my top selections on this list of the Top Five Rolex Watches for Beginners).
It is precisely because Rolex is a brand that stands alone that its wares are ideal as a start or end point of your collection. A Rolex is never a bad choice. It may inspire you to dig a little deeper into the annals of horology and learn about the craft, or it may simply remain the only watch you own and be more than capable of accompanying you on your adventures through life thanks to brand visibility, reliability, and resilience.
Rolex Submariner - Credit WatchGecko
Arguably, the greatest strength of Rolex designs is their versatility. These watches, which are sporty watches at heart, are built like tanks but as elegant as a well-tailored suit. They can withstand the rigours of daily life while accompanying you to more formal events also. The vast array of muted dial tones and regular lug widths also means many of the pieces that exist within the current collection are strap monsters. They’re also extremely photogenic — two reasons why discussing topics like this is perfect for the WatchGecko magazine.
Better still, the collapse of the secondary in 2023 (and its continued slide) means many of the watches listed here can now be purchased second-hand for very reasonable prices. In fact, one of the selections below simply has to be bought pre-loved as Rolex no longer makes it (but that shouldn’t be a reason for it not to feature on this list because its current pricing makes it a perfect candidate).
The Rolex Air King
Rolex Air King - Credit Rolex
The Air King is a strange, often forgotten model family that comprises just one reference, the 40 mm wide 126900.
In truth, it is most similar to the Rolex Explorer and a good option for those who like the simplicity and wearability of that model but prefer a slightly larger size.
This is a fun piece that is, as far as a Rolex goes, a goofy, characterful model, brought to life by the green and yellow logo and wordmark combination that remains unique to it.
Rolex Explorer II 40 mm Polar Dial
Rolex Explorer II - Credit WatchGecko
While this watch no longer exists in the current catalogue, it has, since its discontinuation, become one of the more sought-after pieces from the Crown’s recent history. The white “Polar” dial is lovely, of course, and the red GMT hand chromatically differentiates this watch’s palette from that of its successor, but it is the proportions of this watch that have made it so beloved.
When the Explorer II was updated to the model that itself was recently refined, the case grew and the overall design bulked up noticeably. While one or two millimetres of case diameter might not sound like a huge change to non-watch people, for the pedantic daily wearers among us, it is a massive, massive change, and one Rolex should consider rolling back in the future.
This generation of the Explorer II wears like a dream. It has enough presence to feel sporty and ready for the elements, but it doesn’t overawe your wrist in the way the new Explorer II does. It is boxier and feels more like a tool as a result.
And while I personally prefer the orange hand of the newer model (not featured on this list) over the red hand of the 40 mm era, it is fair to say that red, especially when it comes to wearing this watch on non-Rolex straps, is far more versatile a colour.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Silver Dial
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date on Original Vintage Highley - Credit WatchGecko
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The watch that started Rolex’s ascent to the top of the watchmaking world. In 1926, the Oyster Perpetual became the first automatic wristwatch with a water resistance of 100 meters thanks to its then-revolutionary case construction.
Nowadays, the Oyster Perpetual line is both the entry point and the playground of the brand. Bright colours and slightly more out-of-the-box dial designs are the norm for this collection as Rolex seems willing to embrace its more fun side more readily than ever before.
However, while the enticing red, yellow, green, pink, and blue dials are certainly stunning, they are better suited to experienced collectors who want multiple watches in their watch box for occasional wear. The sleeping giant of the collection is, in my opinion, reference 12600 with the silver dial and gold-framed hour markers.
The Rolex Explorer 36 Black Dial
Rolex Explorer 36 - Credit WatchGecko
I was listening to the This Watch Life daily podcast with Vu Bui and Lydia Winters the other day (as I do every weekday) and they both agreed that the Rolex Explorer 36 mm watch, with its famous 3, 6, 9 layout is possibly the perfect one-watch collection. It is far more subtle than the Explorer II (largely because of its size), far less gaudy than the Datejust, and far more versatile (because of its extremely neutral design and millimetre-perfect proportions).
It’s an absolute beast on aftermarket straps too, gobbling up rubber, fabric, and leather bands ravenously. If you do choose to wear it on a two-piece aftermarket strap, I’d be tempted to source a genuine Rolex buckle from eBay or Chrono24 to complete the look, but if you’re actually into Exploring, very few watches look better than the Explorer I (as some people call it) on British Military straps.
The Rolex Datejust 36 Champagne Dial
Rolex Datejust 36 Champagne Dial - Credit WatchGecko
The king. It took me a long time before I understood the allure of the Datejust. I used to find it dull. I associated it with used car salesmen and Flash Harry characters from the TV shows I watched growing up. I couldn’t imagine why anyone would want to wear a bicolour watch all the time. And then, quite suddenly, many years into my collecting career, I realised why…
The Rolex Datejust with a 36 mm diameter is the epitome of class. It’s popular because it deserves to be. It’s enduring because no other time and date watch has ever matched the simplicity and superiority of its execution. Yes, the gold is a bit gaudy and that might put you off, but it adds a gravitas to the piece that is hard to match for a similar retail.
It is smart and sporty, cool and classical, tough and timeless. While the price of a new DJ36 in steel and yellow gold is creeping towards 10K these days, the ubiquity of these available pre-owned means you can pick up a good one (possibly from your birth year) for around half that and be very confident that you’ve obtained a good watch for the money.
And if the yellow gold is a bit too much for you, check it out in Oystersteel with the smooth bezel, or a steel and white gold model if you’re keen on the recognisable fluted bezel.
The (not insignificant) amount of money you need to spend to acquire a Datejust goes a long way, especially if you enjoy pairing it with aftermarket straps, which have the ability to not only dress down the watch but also to add your own characterful twist to it.
Happy hunting!
