There are some brands that give the impression of not having to try. For others, the exact opposite is true. For the former, the result of this apparent easiness is a palpable air of calm and grace; for the latter, you can almost feel the brand and its representatives straining every sinew to remain relevant. It’s a discomforting, really rather sad feeling. It elicits a sense of pity rather than peace (which should be the goal).
One British brand that has succeeded in reaching this peaceful plain of superficial serenity, at least, is Fears watch company of Bristol. Under the careful stewardship of the brand’s fourth managing director, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the brand has become something of a media darling, an ever-present highlight of watch fairs around the world, and the producer of watches of which the buying public can’t seem to get enough.
Of course, behind the scenes, life is very different. Nicholas travels relentlessly. He is barely ever at home and, when he is, he isn’t for long. Living on one side of the country and working on the other is taxing enough, but his globetrotting is the stuff of legend. He has hauled his family’s company back from the dead through force of will and action. No one can accuse him of having it easy. And even now he’s built up a small but dedicated and dynamic team around himself, all that means is there are now eight people breaking their backs to make this brand a success rather than one.
And yet, because of his clear messaging, excellent delegation, and natural leadership style, the brand appears Swan-like to the rest of us. They’re doing the hard work, so we don’t have to. The story is clean and clear. The product line is sharp and succinct. There’s no bravado, no braggadocio, no BS. It’s refreshing. And, judging by sales, people like to be refreshed.
If you’ve been hankering for a new watch to satiate your thirst for novelty, buying a Fears is something I would heartily recommend. The question is, which one should you go for? With so many modern classics and fast-becoming-iconic-for-the-brand pieces, there’s a lot to choose from. To make things a little easier, I’ve rounded up my Top Five below. Let us know what you think in the comments and check them out in the metal at the Bristol Watch Show next weekend!
5. Fears Brunswick 40 Opaline Silver
This is a bit of a sleeper hit. The opaline dial doesn’t scream at you; it whispers sweet nothings over years of calm companionship. The pop of red on the hand recalls the NOMOS Glashütte Minimatik, another underrated model from another excellent brand.
4. Fears Redcliff 39.5 Date Cherry Red
I’ve loved this model since the moment I saw it, but then, I’m a sucker for colour. There aren’t too many watches available in this shade of red and it strikes an incredible unisex balance with its almost-pink-but-not-quite hue.
3. Fears Brunswick 38 Copper Salmon
I recently listed this watch as one of the Top Five British Watches available for Purchase Right Now. Above it on this list is one unavailable watch and one newer watch that hadn’t debuted at the time of writing the previous article. Read my thoughts on the Fears Brunswick 38 Copper Salmon here.
2. Fears Garrick
The Fears Garrick watch is a hard watch to pin down. It’s almost a perfect collaboration in that it could be (and effectively is) a watch from either brand…
That may sound obvious, but normally, collabs have a true leader. When seconde/seconde/ teams up with Timex, for example, the resulting watch is still very clearly a Timex. When Keith Haring’s estate buddies up with Swatch, the watch is still a Swatch. Even when major maisons collide (as we saw with URWERK and De Bethune’s Only Watch collaboration), one brand tends to lead the design language (that was URWERK, in case you were wondering).
Here, however, the Fears Garrick sits plum between the two and is all the better for it. The dial layout is unusual, the finishing top-notch, and the wearability unquestionable. How could it not be top?
1. Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Coral Lacquer
To be fair, the Fears Garrick may have the edge on the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Coral Lacquer from an artisanal finishing perspective, but the cost/value proposition of the Jump Hour is incredible. An excellent complication delivered in the brand’s most recognised case shape, in a wearable size, and boasting a vibrant, conversation-starting dial results in a watch that, regrettably, will be produced in extremely limited quantities and rereleased seldomly in the future.