The Best Microbrand Watch Release of 2024

We’ve already made our authors sweat by asking them to name just one contender for ‘Best Big Watch Brand of 2024’ but now it’s time for the microbrands to take the spotlight.

It’s no small task choosing just one favourite out of thousands of releases but perhaps harder still is defining what a microbrand actually is. With brands like Christopher Ward soaring from their humbler roots to international success, the brands we’d once define as ‘micro’ have outgrown that moniker, transforming into something quite the opposite.

So, what is a microbrand? The subjective definition I’m working from focusses on the size of a brands outfit, their production turnover and how much their watches retail for. Traditionally, microbrands tend to begin with as a one-man band, growing to perhaps a handful of employees as the brands presence evolves. Due to having a small number of team members, and often only having the capacity to keep production in-house, it’s likely that there’ll also be a relatively low maximum assembly output. Meaning drops are staggered throughout the year rather than any one model being consistently available for purchase at any time. I’d also argue that microbrand watches are expected to be more affordable, perhaps capping their prices around the £5k mark.

There are definitely deviations to the above and, like I’ve said, my definition might not match yours or indeed that of our guest authors, but we have to start somewhere. So, without further ado, the WatchGecko Authors proudly present their candidates for the ‘best microbrand watch of 2024’.

Surprise surprise, my microbrand winner is Studio Underd0g. Excelling themselves into a shiny new sphere, this year has really been all about the Underd0g and, from their now infamous appearance at the inaugural British Watchmaker’s Day to their surprise collab with luxury brand H. Moser & Cie, Founder Richard Benc and his merry band of misfits have been keeping delighted fans on their toes all year round. And I’m unashamed to say, I am one of them.

Considering I’ve touted SU as the best microbrand at the top of the charts on two separate occasions now, I didn’t have to think too hard about which brand I’d be picking, the only real question was which model would reign supreme.

Ironically, my position at WatchGecko Magazine began in January 2024, the same month the Brighton-based brand dropped their long-awaited Pizza Party watches. As a surprise April Fool’s Day joke gone wrong (or, very right indeed), what once was a simple prank turned into an integral part of the brands line-up when the Pepper0ni and Hawaiian were released for real earlier this year.

As my very first taster of what Studio Underd0g could do, and the way in which they were willing to not only engage but also have fun with their customers, I was fascinated and that vital first impression has stood the test of time.

It’s not about the Pizza Watches really, and I’m not saying they’re top of my wish list, but these special editions represent the childlike pleasure Studio Underd0g bring to collecting in an industry that is undeniably monotonous at times.

Whether you think pineapple belongs on pizza, or if in fact pizza belongs on watches, is irrelevant. Driving thousands of enthusiasts out of their homes and onto the streets in search of watches that can only be ‘hand-delivered’ in person is no mean feat and we mustn’t undervalue what this tasty little duo, or the brand themselves, have done to raise the profile of British watch fairs and community events this year. If that’s not worth the title, I’m not sure what is.

I've gone for quite an unorthodox pick for my favourite microbrand watch for this past year, in going for the Christopher Ward x Seconde Seconde C65 Desk Diver, purely on the basis of it being a bit of fun.

I had a lot of choices, too, including the gorgeous Moser x Studio Underd0g collaboration from earlier this year, and the Atelier Wen Perception Titanium with its striking purple dial, but above both of those stands this unassuming dive watch. Why?

To put it plain and simple, because I like it. I can't explain it in any other way than that, apart from with a  well-placed Top Gear clip . The Desk Diver isn't meant to be taken seriously, as suggested immediately by how it pokes fun at traditional office work, and the fact that very little people who purchase dive watches use them to their full potential. I include myself in that, too, as I purchased a CW C60 Atoll because of its bright, blue dial, and because I wanted a summery watch for going on holiday.

Nonetheless, the Desk Diver looks great, with the little post-it note on the dial, and its segmented tongue-in-cheek bezel with differing responsibilities of the day. It also comes in a package complete with pencils and post-its, because at the end of the day, why not?

In addition, it is based on the fantastic C65 model from CW, which is their more timeless diver, with a stainless steel frame, solid fit and finish, and a reliable Sellita calibre inside.

It might not be the first watch that comes to your mind for the best microbrand option of this past year, but the Desk Diver is fun. And we need more fun in this world, don't we?

When it comes to microbrand releases in 2024, my favorite is the Atelier Wen Perception Millésime Mù with its stunning purple dial. Purple has always been my favorite color, but it’s surprisingly rare in watch dials, which makes this release even more special. The last time a purple watch really caught my attention was in last year’s Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023. However, Atelier Wen takes things to a new level with their signature guilloché craftsmanship.

The dial features a mesmerizing fish-scale pattern, hand-turned by a master engraver, Cheng Yucai, using machines he built himself. The rich purple tone is achieved through a PVD process, giving it a depth and vibrancy that perfectly contrasts the muted titanium case. It’s a dial that feels alive, catching the light in ways that make you want to admire it from every angle.

Aside from its aesthetics, the Perception Purple is also incredibly well-engineered. The 40mm titanium case, paired with an integrated bracelet, provides durability and lightweight comfort that’s hard to match. Add to that 100 meters of water resistance and you have a timepiece that balances elegance with everyday practicality.

Priced at $3,588, this is not an entry-level microbrand watch, but for what it offers—high-end materials, artisan techniques, and refined finishing—it’s worth every penny. For anyone who loves unique dials and appreciates excellent craftsmanship, the Atelier Wen Perception Millésime Mù is a standout choice for 2024. And for me, it’s the perfect blend of personal style and horological artistry.

2024 has been a huge year for microbrands. We’ve seen many amazing watches from the smaller independent brands.

Some of the more notable have been, Atelier Wen with the purple Mù Perception. The Milgraf from MicroMilspec, as well as Christopher Ward’s latest Bel Canto Classic. These were all really something quite special and gratefully received within the watch community.

But hands down highlight for me was from Toledano & Chan. In March they released the B/1, a stunning architectural inspired piece with a blue lapis lazuli dial.

With only 175 pieces available, these sold out in 46 minutes. A true testament to the brand, that perhaps have come up with something very special. I had the fortune to try one of these on a few months ago and was immediately hooked. Designed by Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan, this piece had been nothing but a breath of fresh air.

With inspiration taken from a window in the Met Bruer, New York and their shared love of brutalist architecture and watches. This I have no doubt is a future classic watch. One that perfectly captures the spirit of the brand as well as showing other brands that sometimes it’s not just about the movement. And that designing a bracelet is equally important as the case, as this is often overlooked.

With the release of an updated B/1 in early January I’m super excited to see Toledano & Chan carving out their legacy. I for one will be at the front of the queue for the next one, watch this space.

The moment I heard we were choosing just one favourite microbrand watch of the year, there was only one model that came to mind for me: the Baltic Prismic. I am a huge collector of dress watches, especially those inspired by cocktail watches (the Seiko Cocktail Time will forever be my most worn watch). I will always have a love of these 1930’s inspired timepieces, mainly because they were the watches that helped move women’s fashion to become more daring and individualistic.

The Baltic Prismic perfectly embodies this sentiment for me, bringing together the geometric shapes and colours of the era. I think it might be one of Baltic’s most technical dial designs yet, featuring radial guilloche at the centre with a brushed sector around the edge. It’s very Art Deco and I love the choice to have no numerals or printed model designations other than the Baltic logo at 12 o’clock. It keeps the design clean, classy and elegant.

It's also an extremely effortless watch to wear. The case is petite, measuring to 36mm wide and just 9.2mm tall and has a wonderful, sloped bezel, which is relatively wide for a dress watch, but suits the attire beautifully. It can also be ordered with a leather strap or a Milanese bracelet – but the latter is the only option in my opinion. And of course, it’s extremely competitive pricewise, retailing for less than £1,000. Even if the Baltic Prismic isn’t to your taste, I suggest keeping an eye on this microbrand for what they do next year because they rarely go wrong.

This is about as tough a category as one could hope to find in the watch industry right now. There is so much ingenuity and creativity in the entry-level space, emerging watch fans are spoilt for choice by countless similarly emerging brands.

What complicates the question further, however, is the definition of a “microbrand”. I find it hard to keep referring to a brand like Studio Underd0g in that vein given the incredible visibility, sales volume, and high-level collaborations. If we’re applying this somewhat worn-out categorisation to Richard Benc’s streaking behemoth, then fine, it’s the best. It isn’t even a question. The collaboration with Moser sealed it. The launch of the ca. £1,500 Series03 was the cherry on top. Rich and his team are flying high. So high, in fact, I’m ready to refuse to call them a microbrand. They’re a small independent. And what a small independent company they are…

Can we call Space One a microbrand? The brainchild of Guillaume Laidet, CEO of Excelsior Park and Nivada Grenchen, and esteemed watchmaker Theo Auffret, there’s a huge amount of hard-won credibility behind the start-up.

I’ve always thought that the definition of microbrand goes beyond just a small, or new brand. Is every brand a micro when it starts out? No, I don’t think that’s true at all. And so there must be several things that define a micro. The price is probably one (let’s say no higher than 5K). B2C is another (microbrands often prioritise value to the customer over a retail network). What about a certain emulative aesthetic element at the centre of their identity (a la Steinhart)?

When you ask yourself whether it’s fair to put the mind-blowing creativity of Space One next to a Rolex-copying brand based in the founder’s mum’s bedroom, it starts to feel a bit disrespectful.

So, I’ll say this: the top two brands of 2024 many of you may still be comfortable calling microbrands are Studio Underd0g and Space One in that order.

For me, this year, the best indisputable microbrand was Serica, because of the release of Ref. 6190 M.S.L. Chronometer Polar White. Nothing Serica does reinvents the wheel, but I like the way they roll. A new take on classic forms, a wonderful coalescence of functional and aesthetically pleasing elements, and competitive pricing. For me, that’s what a microbrand is, and Serica does it best.

Just occasionally, a microbrand pops up (or returns from the dead) and you end up thinking that this is absolutely amazing; really second to none.

Expect that this statement wouldn’t quite be accurate for what I consider to be the most spectacular emergence of 2024. Historically, it’s only second to one – and that ‘one’ is none other than Blancpain, which was founded in 1735 and is widely considered to be the oldest Swiss watch brand in the world.

Favre-Leuba, which I’m voting for as my microbrand of the year, was founded just two years later and so is popularly reckoned to be the second-oldest watch brand.

Given that illustrious heritage, can it even be considered to be a ‘microbrand’? The appellation seems almost ludicrous for a brand with such history. Yet it can’t be denied that Favre-Leuba has definitely dropped off the radar in recent years and not produced that many watches, through a combination of apathy and entropy.

Now, it’s a very different story. Under the brilliant new management of Patrik Hoffman, the brand has been re-energised thanks to the reissue of some iconic former models such as the Deep Blue, Chief, and Sea Sky – and they are all simply stunning, as well as being technically accomplished.

This simple but far-reaching reboot has opened so many people’s eyes – me included – as to just what a legend Favre Leuba once was and will hopefully now continue to be in future.

The brand has the sort of heritage money can’t buy, allied to looks that transcend time, and value that puts inimitable pedigree into the hands of ordinary people right now.

It’s an astonishing resurrection that forms a living masterclass on how to spectacularly revive a dormant company, and so is my microbrand of 2024.

Unfortunately for our authors, in any race, there must be a winner. The comments under this article are now open. All we need you to do is cast your eyes over our selection and let us know which of these eight watches deserves the title of ‘Best Microbrand Watch of 2024’.

If you haven't checked out our selection for 'Best Big Brand Watch of 2024' now is the time, and again, the comments are open for your votes. The winners for ‘Best Watch of 2024’ will be revealed here on Saturday 11th January, so stay tuned!