Ace Jewelers x NOMOS Glashütte: A Full-Circle Celebration

In the world of watches, a great collaboration doesn’t just blend two logos on a dial. It tells a story. And when that story involves two long-time partners revisiting the model that started it all, the result can feel like something truly meaningful. The latest release from Ace Jewelers and NOMOS Glashütte is a prime example — a bold and thoughtfully crafted tribute to a shared creative journey.

To celebrate their 50th anniversary, Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers have teamed up once again with NOMOS Glashütte. This isn’t the first time the two names have appeared together. Their collaborative relationship began back in 2017 with the launch of the Orion De Stijl, a minimalist standout that quickly sold out and set the tone for future joint ventures. Since then, Ace and NOMOS have worked together on a number of limited editions, each met with strong praise and rapid sell-through. Now, they’re returning to where it all began by creating something new using a watch they’ve never touched before — the Metro.

Originally launched at BaselWorld 2014, the Metro introduced a distinctly urban, contemporary flavour to NOMOS’ lineup. Designed by Berlin-based industrial designer Mark Braun, the Metro stood apart thanks to its minimalist, almost architectural aesthetic. Tapered hands, dot indices, and those unmistakable wire lugs helped give the watch a crisp, modern silhouette that still managed to echo the brand’s Bauhaus and Deutscher Werkbund roots. Though it quickly became a fan favourite, NOMOS rarely produces limited-edition versions of the Metro. And when they do, the design must be approved by Braun himself.

This makes the Ace Jewelers anniversary editions all the more exciting. Not only did Braun give his blessing, but he also took a hands-on approach to the project. Working closely with Alon Ben Joseph, the owner of Ace Jewelers, Braun helped develop two playful but carefully considered colour palettes that feel totally in step with the Metro’s aesthetic language. Both models retain the familiar Metro silhouette, but they inject the design with a new sense of vibrancy and energy.

The result is a pair of watches that feel distinctly celebratory. They’re a nod to both the past and the future. A tribute to the history Ace and NOMOS share, and a signal that the Metro still has plenty of room for fresh expression.

In true NOMOS fashion, the design is deceptively simple at first glance, but look a little closer and the details begin to shine.

The first model — the 35mm Ace Jewelers x NOMOS Glashütte Metro neomatik — is built around a matte apricot base dial, a warm and welcoming tone that leans somewhere between peach and orange sorbet. A darker burnt orange sub-dial at six o'clock adds contrast, creating a layered, almost sunset-like warmth across the dial. It’s a playful palette, but one that doesn’t sacrifice refinement.

The Ace Jewelers x NOMOS Glashütte Metro neomatik 39 flips this scheme around. Here, the dominant colour is the deeper burnt orange, with the sub-dial offering a touch of lighter contrast in the form of that same apricot hue. Seen side by side, the two models complement each other beautifully. They’re different enough to stand on their own, but clearly part of the same story. The colours were selected with a subtle nod to Dutch culture too. While red, white, and blue are the official colours of the Netherlands, orange has long been associated with national pride, thanks to the Dutch Royal Family and the House of Orange.

Both watches feel modern, but not cold. Colourful, but not loud. They walk a fine line between contemporary design object and timeless dress watch, which is exactly the kind of territory the Metro has always thrived in.

Of course, a bold colour scheme is only one part of the equation. Fortunately, all the hallmarks of the Metro are still present here. The case is polished stainless steel with elegantly domed sapphire crystal on the front and a sapphire exhibition caseback on the reverse. The wire lugs remain as distinctive as ever, giving the watch an almost skeletal profile on the wrist. They’re minimal but characterful and surprisingly comfortable too.

The typography is another standout. NOMOS has long mastered the art of creating typefaces that feel both utilitarian and warm, and the Metro is perhaps their best example. The use of colour doesn’t detract from the Metro’s graphic precision either. If anything, it makes the whole design feel more tactile and alive.

Each watch comes on a clean and understated black strap that lets the dial do the talking. It’s a smart move, and one that keeps the focus where it belongs.

Powering both watches is NOMOS’ ultra-thin DUW 3001 movement. Just 3.2mm thick, it’s a technical achievement that helped set a new standard when it launched in 2015. The DUW 3001 was designed entirely in-house and features NOMOS’ proprietary swing system, a key development that allowed the brand to become fully independent from external suppliers.

Efficiency is a major theme here. The movement boasts a friction loss of just 5.8%, meaning over 94% of the energy generated is transferred directly to the gear train. That translates to high accuracy and a power reserve of up to 43-hours, all within a remarkably slim footprint.

Through the sapphire caseback, you can admire the movement’s finishing where Glashütte ribbing, blued screws and a three-quarter plate demonstrate traditional watchmaking with a modern twist. It’s also beautifully integrated into the overall package, reinforcing that this is more than just a colourful Metro, it’s a mechanically serious watch.

"Celebrating our 50th anniversary with a NOMOS limited edition feels like a full-circle moment,"

says Alon Ben Joseph, CEO of Ace Jewelers. 

"The Metro embodies contemporary elegance and precision, and having Mark Braun personally involved in the design process makes these pieces even more special. These editions push the boundaries of the Metro collection with their bold aesthetics, creating a striking duo that tells a cohesive story."

Braun echoed those sentiments.

"It has been a welcome and inspiring challenge to design the Anniversary Limited Edition for Ace Jewelers of our Metro for NOMOS Glashütte," he says. "Especially as I’ve been living in the Netherlands for some time. Happy birthday Ace Jewelers — enjoy the time ticking and celebrate Metro in its orange vitality in every detail."

It’s that balance, between personal involvement and professional design execution, that gives these pieces so much of their charm. This isn’t just another colour swap. It’s a carefully crafted statement about where both brands have come from, and where they’re going next.

I love it. I’ve always had a soft spot for orange — and for Amsterdam. It’s a city that pulses with creativity, colour, and character, which makes it the perfect backdrop for this release. I’m also genuinely pleased for Alon Ben Joseph, who remains one of the most humble and hardworking figures in the watch world. That this collaboration should feel so personal, so lively, and so true to its design roots is a testament to the care and commitment that went into making it.

It’s a fitting tribute, not only to a great boutique, but also to a watch that has always deserved a little more time in the spotlight. If this is the direction the Metro is heading, I’m fully on board.

CASE

• Case material: Stainless steel
• Case diameter: 35mm / 38.5mm
• Case height: 8.1mm / 8.4mm
• Lug-to-lug: 42.1mm / 45.5mm
• Weight: 40g / 49g
• Water resistance: 3atm / 5atm
• Caseback: Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback

MOVEMENT

• Calibre: DUW 3001 automatic
• Height: 3.2mm
• Diameter: 28.8mm
• Power reserve: Up to 43-hours
• Jewels: 27
• Special qualities: NOMOS swing system, tempered blue balance spring, NOMOS balance bridge, fixed by screws on both sides, stop-seconds mechanism, bidirectional winding rotor, Glashütte three-quarter plate DUW regulation system, adjusted in six positions, tempered blue screws, rhodium-plated surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS perlage

Both the Metro neomatik and the larger Metro neomatik 39 are available now through Ace Jewelers, either individually or as part of a numbered set. Just 50 pieces of each version have been produced, with the first ten sold as matching sets. Prices are EUR 3,400 including VAT (EUR 2,810 excl. VAT) for the 35mm model, and EUR 3,540 including VAT (EUR 2,926 excl. VAT) for the 39mm.