If there is an under-the-radar watch brand and collection that epitomises the meaning of the phrase ‘heritage diver’, it’s the DOXA SUB 200T.
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
The SUB collection has been a part of DOXA’s range since 1967 and has consistently evolved to offer fresh and exciting developments in the brand’s signature style.
This new 200T aims to do just that, bringing with it a classy new colourway and more wearable case dimensions whilst still retaining its classic looks. This model has plenty to offer for enthusiasts as well as those who genuinely need a capable diving watch and at £1450 on the rubber strap or £1490 on a classy beads of rice bracelet, it’s also quite reasonably priced for a watch of its specs and heritage.
The Case
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
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The new SUB 200T offers daintier dimensions than its older brother, the SUB 300T, instead opting for a smaller 39mm case diameter with a 41.5mm lug-to-lug measurement. Smaller watches seem to be super prevalent at the moment, so DOXA are right-on-trend with this wonderfully wearable piece that will easily suit a variety of wrist-sizes, including my own 18.2cm wrist where it felt right at home. It’s less of a big, brash diver’s watch than we can commonly see amongst its competition and its sub-11mm thickness also means it’ll slip under any cuffs if you're hoping to dress it up for dressier formal occasions.
The case is also in keeping with DOXA’s classic style, inspired by both the older 300T and in turn the original Conquistador model from the late 1960s, it’s comprised of the industry-standard 316L stainless steel for a rugged and shiny finish. It features protrusions on either side for some additional flair that also works to protect the crown, as well as convenient features such as screw-down crown and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal for maximum scratch resistance. Unlike the larger SUB 300T, this dinkier DOXA opts for a flat crystal which perhaps embraces modernity a little more than the box and bubble crystals offered on other options out there.
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
DOXA’s patented unidirectional rotating bezel features an integrated US Navy no-decompression limit table which adds an extra layer of functionality and is the benchmark for diver safety. This reference is also water-resistant to 200 metres, or 660 feet, and while that is a long way off the 1200m resistance rating of the bigger 300T, it’s generally fine for use on a watch that’s likely to be a more versatile performer in someone’s collection. The SUB 200T’s caseback also comes with some DOXA decorations, feaaturing a small logo and sailboat motif, too, which adds a little bit of flair where warranted.
The SUB 200T is offered on either an integrated rubber strap or a beads-of-rice bracelet, which leans more into the watch's roots. Although the bracelet looks excellent, I personally prefer the FKM rubber strap in the matching emerald green. The 18mm lugs make it a narrower choice too, in-keeping with the smaller proportions that the SUB 200T offers.
The Dial
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
It’s arguably the new Emerald Green dial which is the standout here, but if that’s not your thing the range of colours decorating the SUB 200T range are bold and plentiful. Featuring seven options in total, the watch is also presented in blue, yellow, and orange. The Emerald Green model is offered in both a matted (Iconic) and sunray finish, with the latter catching the light with a little more vibrancy. It’s a dial that you can easily get lost in thanks to its sunray finish, combined with golden hands and hour markers.
The text on the dial is clean and simple with the DOXA name, as well as the model name and colour variant shown, plus the word ‘automatic’. At six o’clock, there is small black text detailing this to be a Swiss-made piece, but although given it sits on a darker portion of the sunray dial and is hidden away nicely. With its chunky markers and hands on a smaller dial, the SUB 200T is especially legible and there is even a convenient date window that appears in black and white at 3 o’clock.
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
There is also a generous helping of Super Luminova on both the painted hour markers and the hands, which makes this a brilliant watch for use after dark on land or deep down in the sea, especially with a darker green dial offsetting the vivid lume.
The Movement
The movement inside the SUB 200T isn’t disclosed, but its specs match up with a movement they are known for using elsewhere - the tried-and-tested Sellita SW200-1 which is also a favourite of brands such as Christopher Ward. The self-winding Swiss mechanical movement incorporates a 28,800vph beat rate allowing for a decent second-hand sweep and its 38 hours of power reserve is solid, too. That means if you want to rotate the SUB 200T in and out of your collection every couple of days, you should be able to without needing to wind it back up again.
Doxa Sub 200T Emerald Green - Credit WatchGecko
Conclusion
The DOXA SUB 200T is a fantastic addition to the Swiss brand’s collection of divers, especially in its brand new Emerald Green colourway which adds another sharp and interesting option to the ever-growing range of DOXA colourways. Those smaller dimensions make it a rather wearable piece too, and an ideal pairing with casual outfits as we approach the summer months.
Technical Specs
- Indications: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
- Case: 316L stainless steel
- Diameter: 39 mm x 41.50 mm
- Thickness: 10.70 mm
- Lug width: 18 mm
- Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating
- Crown: Screw-down crown
- Caseback: Stainless steel, screw-in
- Water resistance: 20 ATM, approx. 200 meters or 660 feet
- Dial: Choice of Iconic or Sunray. Painted hour-markers highlighted with Super-LumiNova® luminescent material. Hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova® luminescent material. Outboard painted minute track.
- Bezel: Stainless steel - Unidirectional rotation
- Movement: Swiss, self-winding mechanical. DOXA decorations and 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
- Power reserve: approx. 38 hours
- Bracelet & Strap: Stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet with folding clasp and wetsuit extension or FKM rubber strap, matching the dial color, with folding clasp and wetsuit extension
