In March 2024, the Toledano & Chan B/1 exploded onto the scene, receiving widespread acclaim and securing its place as one of the most talked-about timepieces of the year. For me, it wasn’t just a watch—it was *the* watch, topping my list of 2024’s standout horological releases. Fast-forward to the dawn of 2025, and the dynamic design duo, Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan, have returned with their sophomore creation: the Toledano & Chan B/1.2. While improving on the original seemed like an insurmountable task, they’ve managed to refine and enhance their formula without losing the essence of what made the B/1 so special.
Phil Toledano, a suave and innovative conceptual artist based in New York, and Alfred Chan, a seasoned watch designer with over a decade of experience in China, might seem like an unlikely pairing. Yet, their shared passion for design, particularly brutalist architecture, has resulted in a creative synergy that is nothing short of extraordinary. The inspiration for their watches stems from their mutual admiration of the stark, geometric beauty of 1970s brutalism. Central to their design philosophy is a window—not just any window, but the asymmetrical centrepiece of the Met Breuer building in New York. This unconventional feature of brutalist design, with its sharp edges and bold defiance of symmetry, became the foundation of the B/1’s aesthetic. Combined with a nod to the iconic Rolex King Midas, the B/1 series is a masterclass in blending architecture with horology.
The B/1’s debut was nothing short of revolutionary. It delivered a seamless integration between case and bracelet that felt almost organic in its execution. Every element—from the sharply faceted dial to the intricately designed 25-link bracelet—flowed together in perfect harmony. The bracelet itself was an engineering marvel, with each link differing in width, thickness, or angle, locking together with an almost imperceptible transition. This wasn’t just a watch; it was a sculptural statement piece. And now, with the B/1.2, Toledano & Chan have doubled down on that philosophy, fine-tuning the original to create something even more remarkable.
One of the most notable changes is the dial. Gone is the striking lapis lazuli of the original; in its place is an exquisite Tahitian Mother of Pearl. This new dial adds an element of understated luxury, with its shifting iridescence providing a dynamic contrast to the watch’s otherwise bold and architectural lines. The sloped architecture of the case is now complemented by an asymmetrical sapphire crystal, which not only enhances the watch’s visual impact but also adds a new layer of depth and complexity. It’s a subtle evolution that underscores the designers’ commitment to innovation without unnecessary excess.
The dimensions of the B/1.2 remain consistent with its predecessor, measuring 33.5mm in width and tapering from 10.4mm to 9.1mm in thickness. However, the refinements to its details—particularly in the bracelet—are where the real magic happens. While the overall design of the 25-link integrated bracelet has been preserved, its internal engineering has been completely overhauled. The clasp mechanism, for instance, has been upgraded for added security and ease of use, showcasing the brand’s dedication to both aesthetics and functionality. Each link continues to vary in size and angle, creating a flowing, almost organic feel that mirrors the bold curves and edges of the case.
What makes the B/1.2 truly special, however, is not just its physical attributes but the intangible connection it fosters. Toledano himself refers to this feeling as the “fizz”—a spark of excitement that occurs when something resonates on a deeply personal level. Wearing the B/1.2 isn’t just an experience; it’s a relationship. The seamless transition from case to bracelet, the way light dances across the Tahitian Mother of Pearl, and the thoughtful architectural touches all contribute to a watch that feels alive, dynamic, and profoundly personal.
Of course, these enhancements come with a price. The original B/1 was priced at an almost shocking £3,229, which many—including myself—felt was an absolute steal considering the craftsmanship on offer. The B/1.2 sees a price increase to around £4,400, but even at this higher price point, it remains an exceptional value. For a watch that combines such meticulous design, top-tier materials like 904L stainless steel, and unparalleled attention to detail, the cost feels more than justified.
Powering this beauty is the Swiss-made Sellita SW100 automatic movement, offering 42 hours of power reserve. The crown is positioned on the left of the case, as this has been designed as a Destro watch, again offering the wearer something different from the norm.
Beyond the watch itself, the presentation of the B/1.2 deserves special mention. Encased in a brutalist-inspired concrete box, it’s clear that Toledano & Chan view their timepieces as holistic works of art, where even the packaging plays a role in the overall experience. This approach reflects their background as designers and visionaries, unafraid to challenge conventions and redefine what a modern luxury watch can be.
With their second release, Toledano & Chan have proven that the B/1 wasn’t a one-hit wonder. The B/1.2 retains the soul of its predecessor while carving out its own identity, offering fans of the brand—and contemporary watchmaking as a whole—a glimpse of what the future might hold. It’s a watch that feels deeply rooted in its brutalist inspiration yet refreshingly forward-thinking in its execution.
The arrival of the B/1.2 also feels timely, as the watch industry appears to be entering a new phase. Sculptural, and architectural designs are becoming more prevalent, signalling a shift away from traditional aesthetics toward something bolder and more experimental. Toledano & Chan are not just part of this movement—they’re leading it. Their work reminds us that watches can be more than functional tools or luxury status symbols; they can be art, architecture, and innovation rolled into one.
For those who appreciate daring design and uncompromising craftsmanship, the B/1.2 represents the pinnacle of contemporary watchmaking. It’s not for everyone, but that’s precisely the point. It’s a watch for those who see beauty in asymmetry, who value originality over tradition, and who want their wristwear to tell a story. And as we move further into 2025, one thing is clear: Toledano & Chan are just getting started. With each release, they’re not only raising the bar for themselves but also challenging the entire industry to think bigger, bolder, and more creatively. It’s an exciting time to be a watch enthusiast, and I, for one, can’t wait to see what they come up with next.
