The Rise of Microbrand Watches: A New Golden Age of Independent Watchmaking

Let’s be honest—watch collecting has never been more exciting. While the industry giants continue to dominate billboards and boutique windows, there’s been a quiet yet relentless uprising of independent microbrands shaking things up. These small-scale, often enthusiast-driven brands aren’t just filling gaps left by the big players—they’re redefining what modern watchmaking can be. From daring materials and intricate movements to jaw-dropping dial work, microbrands have become the playground for innovation. And the best part? They’re often accessible, refreshingly different, and not the same five models you see reposted endlessly on Instagram.

If you’re tired of the usual suspects and craving something off the beaten path, here are five microbrand watches you might not have heard of—but definitely should.

Founded in 2024 in Split, Croatia, by violinist-turned-entrepreneur Jelena Kalajžić and her husband Ante, Perun blends fine watch craftsmanship with Slavic cultural heritage. Named after the Slavic god of thunder, the brand brings deep storytelling to its designs.

Their debut model, the Perun Veles, is a 40mm sport/dress watch featuring Glagolitic script numerals, an elk-horn motif, and subtle caseback engravings inspired by Slavic folklore. A Swiss-made Sellita SW221-1 automatic movement with a rare pointer date complication ensures solid mechanical performance. Thoughtfully crafted with high-quality materials and intricate details, Perun’s watches appeal to those who appreciate both artistry and history on their wrist.

Straum, a Norwegian microbrand founded in 2020 by industrial designers Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby, takes inspiration from Norway’s rugged landscapes. Unlike many microbrands, Straum develops its own designs from scratch, ensuring originality and meticulous craftsmanship.

Their debut watch, the Opphav, introduced a 41mm case with a textured dial that mimics natural landscapes, appearing to float above a concave chapter ring. Limited editions like the Opphav Damascus pushed material experimentation further. The Jan Mayen collection, released in 2023, brought an integrated bracelet, a La Joux-Perret G101 movement with a 68-hour power reserve, and 200m water resistance—making it a serious tool watch while retaining Straum’s signature dial artistry. With its blend of design innovation and fine execution, Straum has built a reputation as one of the most exciting independent brands today.

Ophion is proof that microbrands don’t have to mean “entry-level.” This Spanish brand is punching way above its weight class, delivering high-end finishing, hand-crafted details, and a level of refinement that feels like it should come with a Geneva Seal. Their OPH 786 models channel 18th-century watchmaking aesthetics with a modern twist, featuring guilloché-inspired dials, blued hands, and elaborate movement finishing. While many indie brands lean hard into tool watches and modern design, Ophion is unapologetically traditional—but with just enough contemporary edge to feel fresh. If you love the idea of a Breguet-inspired watch without the five-figure price tag, Ophion is a hidden gem.

If you have a thing for exotic materials, Selten is a brand that should be on your radar. Specializing in dials crafted from meteorite, patina, mother-of-pearl, and aventurine, Selten creates watches that blend natural beauty with fine watchmaking. While many brands experiment with unique dial materials, Selten takes it further with intricate patterns, refined polishing techniques, and designs that transform each watch into a miniature work of art. Their recent models balance elegant case proportions with a strong emphasis on dial craftsmanship, making them feel like a fusion of haute horlogerie and contemporary creativity. If you want something truly distinctive without breaking the bank, Selten is an excellent choice.

Founded in 2020 by Auscar Tan, Ikigai Watches embodies the Japanese concept of "ikigai"—finding purpose in life. The brand creates timepieces that go beyond function, aiming to inspire positivity and motivation.

Their debut model, the Ikigai Kame, is a 40mm dive watch inspired by the turtle, a symbol of resilience. Featuring a cushion-shaped case, fully lumed bezel, and vibrant dials, it merges practicality with personality. A sea turtle engraving on the caseback further reinforces its theme of endurance.

Ikigai’s thoughtful design choices, from its subtly branded dial to its symbolic elements, emphasize personal connection. For those seeking a watch with both meaning and craftsmanship, Ikigai delivers a refreshing take on microbrand watchmaking.