Vertex M36 Hands-On Review

In the ever-growing world of micro and independent watch brands, it may seem like most have only emerged in the last decade or so. But Vertex, a name with deep roots in horological history, takes us much further back. Founded over a century ago by Claude Lyon, in 1906 he set up Dreadnought Watches with a £1000 loan and, by 1915, had evolved to a position where he was making watches for the British Military.

He set up dual headquarters, one in London and another in Switzerland, allowing him to leverage his expertise in both regions and produce a diverse range of watches. At the time, he was simply another respected British watchmaker, but the outbreak of World War II shifted everything. In 1941, Claude’s son Henry, serving as a Captain in the British Army, found himself in a position to shape the procurement of a new generation of military watches for Britain. It was at this point in 1944 that Vertex went on to make its mark as one of the revered “Dirty Dozen”.

During World War II, once the British military finalized its watch design, twelve manufacturers answered the call to produce watches to the same strict specifications. As a reminder, here’s what the British government deposited as its original design brief:

• A black dial, with luminescent indexes with railway-style Arabic numerals, with seconds at 6 o’clock;
• Luminescent hour and minute hands;
• A steel case, shock-resistant, non-polished, water-resistant thanks to a good-sized, reliable and easily operated crown;
• An unbreakable and shockproof Perspex glass; 

Each of these timepieces would eventually serve in the military, with some made in large quantities and others in more limited runs. While each brand added its own subtle variations to the design, together they became known as The Dirty Dozen. The brands that participated were Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana (the rarest), Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Timor, and Vertex.

Today, owning a complete Dirty Dozen collection is a dream for most collectors and remarkably, Vertex was the only British company among “The Dirty Dozen”, producing 4,652 of its Cal 59 W.W.W navigation watches for troops ahead of D-Day and supplying 1,776 for the D-Day landings.

Despite this legacy, like many traditional watchmakers, Vertex fell victim to the quartz crisis of the 1970s. However, the brand’s story didn’t end there. Recently revived by Claude Lyon’s great-grandson, Don Cochrane, Vertex has entered a new era of modern watchmaking. In 2016, they launched the M100, the first new Vertex watch in 45 years, drawing inspiration from the iconic Cal 59, and signalling a bold return for this historic British brand.

Since then, we’ve seen the likes of the M60 Aqualion as well as the MP45 series and the M100A join the ranks but Vertex’s most recent release, the Vertex M36, was delivered this past June to commemorate the 80^th anniversary of D-Day. Born to remember the iconic watches supplied by the brand to British forces back in 1944, the Vertex M36 echoes the spirit of resilience and precision that were critical in aiding British troops on that historic day now over eighty years ago.

Presented with a minimalistic and highly legible dial with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track, the design language of the Vertex M36 ticks the right boxes in line with the WWII era watches it pays homage to. Opting for a box-shaped sapphire crystal in favour of a domed aesthetic, there’s an additional layer of retro charm that adds nicely to the distinctive vintage look of the timepiece whilst also ensuring it’s capable of standing up to knocks, scratches and scuffs.

On brand for Vertex, the M36 features moulded X1 Super-LumiNova numerals and finely printed indexes for enhanced visibility in all light conditions. The hands have been crafted from rhodium and have also been treated with a generous amount of Super Lumi-Nova so visibility won’t be an issue even in low-light and the classic aesthetic is maintained throughout the dial.

Powered by the SW21, popular for its precision and durability, the Vertex M36 is suitable for all wrist sizes thanks to its classic 36mm stainless steel case. A nod to the vintage military predecessors that came before it, the original dirty dozen design brief took in watches that were between 35 and 38 mm in diameter, so the 36 mm of the M36 (hence the name) sits more or less bang in the middle of that spectrum, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of World War II.

The robust case offers a 10ATM (100m) rating and is designed to withstand both daily wear and adventurers further afield. Equipped with a Nivarox hairspring to counteract magnetic interference, the M35 features a screw down crown as well as screw down lug bars.

Each watch comes with a selection of bespoke accessories: an expanding metal bracelet for a classic fit, a leather over-and-under strap for a refined look, and a cotton over-and-under strap for a more casual style. While the M36 includes quality straps and a metal bracelet, if you're looking for something different, be sure to check out the wide range of premium straps available on the WatchGecko website. Personally, I think the WatchGecko Signature Military Nylon Watch Strap is a great fit.

The M36, like its predecessor the M100A, uses a modern Sellita automatic movement, which slightly departs from the original, but the rest of the watch remains impressively true to its Dirty Dozen heritage. With authentic details such as the broad arrow and "WWW" engravings, the M36 could easily be mistaken for a restored historical piece. While modern refinements elevate the watch's finish, Vertex has stayed loyal to the retro military field watch genre, solidifying its reputation. However, as time progresses, maintaining fresh variations of the same theme may become more challenging. For now though, the M36 stands as one of the most convincing Dirty Dozen tributes yet.

• 36mm 316L Brushed steel Case
• Box crystal double domed and anti reflective
• Moulded X1 Super-LumiNova dial
• Sellita SW260-1 top execution movement with Nivarox anti-magnetic hairspring
• Screw in crown
• Screw in lug bars
• 5 year warranty
• Expandable metal strap, Leather over and under strap,Cotton over and under strap
• Customer tactical case with Vertex M36 Velcro patch
• Water resistant to 100m
• Swiss made

RRP: £2,150 inc VAT