The Best Watches & Wonders Releases of 2025

Another whirlwind Geneva Watch Week has come to a close and what a week it’s been. With the eyes of the horological world firmly fixed on Palexpo, Watches and Wonders 2025 delivered a tidal wave of new releases, bold design shifts, and subtle evolutions from the industry’s biggest players. From headline-stealing icons to quietly refined upgrades, this year’s showcase reminded us why this event remains the beating heart of the luxury watch calendar.

To celebrate the occasion, we asked some of our ever-enthusiastic guest authors to pick one standout release from the fair, whether it was a surprise hit, a new personal grail, or simply a watch that made them smile. The result is a curated collection of favourites that reflects the diversity and passion of the watch community itself.

Let’s dive into their top picks from Watches and Wonders 2025…

Every so often, a watch comes along that just stops you in your tracks. For me, that moment hit with the new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold. It’s rich, warm, and entirely unapologetic—yet somehow still deeply refined. The brown dial alone is a dream, with layered textures that shimmer and shift depending on the light. Paired with the glowing, slightly peachy tone of Lange’s proprietary Honeygold, it delivers an indulgent, chocolatey aesthetic that’s unlike anything else in their typically restrained lineup.

What really seals it for me is the case size. At 34mm, this version of the Odysseus feels beautifully versatile. It’s compact without being dainty, and bold without tipping into excess. It’s a proper unisex luxury sports watch; elegant, wearable, and full of character.

Inside beats something just as special: the L155.1 Datomatic calibre, developed exclusively for the Odysseus. It’s a rare automatic movement from Lange, featuring a 50-hour power reserve and a higher 4Hz frequency, ideal for a sports watch with real-world practicality. True to form, the movement is decorated to Lange’s exacting standards, visible through the sapphire caseback in all its hand-finished glory.

Of course, the solid Honeygold bracelet is as heavy as it is glorious, and the price tag… well, let’s just say it’s currently filed under “grail status” for me. But isn’t that part of the magic? The dream of one day strapping on something this special, something that combines mechanical ingenuity with sheer aesthetic joy.

Lange might be known for its stoicism, but this release proves they can do opulence just as well. It’s rich, it’s radiant, and for now, it lives rent-free in my daydreams.

This is probably something I'm going to get pilloried for in the comments, but I'm willing to die on the hill that the reissue of Tag Heuer's iconic Formula 1 is the best release from Watches and Wonders 2025.

Maybe it's because it's a piece I'm genuinely considering a purchase of in the future, or maybe it's because I've often been an advocate of adding a dose of fun back into the watch industry; I think this new Formula 1 hits the sweet spot between fun, and a more 'attainable' Tag Heuer product in the current context of the brand's offerings.

It's probably no secret that this repositioning of Tag Heuer coincided with the move of Frédéric Arnault to become the young Chief Executive of the brand, putting a younger head on things with a change in vision and perspective. Recent releases such as the 2023 variant of the 'Glassbox' Carrera Chronograph and the first split-seconds variant of the Monaco saw them lean into their heritage, while freshening models up in look and feel.

The new Formula 1 Solargraph feels like a culmination of this; that is, bringing back Tag Heuer's previously most accessible entry into their brand with modern refinements that sit well at what is, by modern Tag Heuer standards, a modest price point. The case has been sized up to 38mm in that sweet spot for most folks, with a move to stainless steel cases (or plastic if you go for a limited-edition model) and applied numerals, as well as a movement upgrade to the same TH50-00 quartz calibre as the dearer Aquaracer Solargraph.

According to Tag Heuer, this is a movement that should provide at least 15 years of use with little to no issues, while two minute of light provides enough charge for a full day – up it to 40 hours of light, and you'll get enough for 10 months of use.

I've seen some folks calling this new Formula 1 Solargraph a bit of a 'Moonswatch' moment for the brand; part of me agrees with this, but the other part thinks this is perhaps bigger than that. It's a properly fun, and seemingly well executed, entry into a big brand and Swiss watchmaking that folks are surely going to gobble up. I know I might.

Watches & Wonders 2025 is in full swing. Geneva is buzzing with industry energy as press badges flash, brands reconnect, and anticipation fills the halls of Palexpo. Behind the scenes, the inboxes of journalists and collectors alike overflow with press releases—each promising the next big thing. Filtering through the deluge can feel like battling the Hydra: reply to one, and two more emerge. But amidst the noise, what truly stood out?

For reasons I still can’t quite pin down, I often wrestle with my feelings toward Rolex. I’ll admit—the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller in platinum with its ice-blue dial is quietly compelling. But the little horological voice on my shoulder keeps whispering, “Not that one…”

Instead, my undisputed pick of the show is the breathtaking Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon.

As an engineer, I’m constantly fascinated by what’s physically possible. And once again, Bulgari has delivered something that feels almost impossible. At just 1.85mm thin, this creation isn’t just a technical achievement, it’s a masterstroke. Somehow, they’ve made a watch so impossibly slim without compromising its design DNA or visual presence.

It’s not just about the numbers. The Ultra Tourbillon is the embodiment of pushing past limits with purpose. The BVF900 calibre—COSC-certified, no less—is suspended between two sapphire layers, making it feel more like a floating mechanical sculpture than a traditional wristwatch. And the Octo Finissimo aesthetic remains fully intact: architectural, angular, and utterly contemporary.

Yes, at $678,000, it sits firmly in dream territory. But even among a sea of impressive releases this year, the Ultra Tourbillon is on another plane entirely. It’s not just thin—it’s profound. A watch that dares to ask not how much you can add, but how much you can take away and still be extraordinary.

This isn’t just my favourite of the fair—it’s a modern horological marvel.

Similar to last year, IWC impressed with a strong lineup — and for me, the highlight was the new Ingenieur Automatic 35.

I’ve always admired the Ingenieur’s design — the Genta DNA, the integrated bracelet, the textured grid dial — but the 40mm version simply felt too large for my wrist. That’s why I was genuinely excited to see a 35mm option this year. It delivers the same iconic look, just in a format that actually fits me and wears comfortably throughout the day.

What I really appreciate is that IWC didn’t try to “soften” the design for a smaller case. There are no diamonds, no pastel colors, no visual compromises — just the same bold, clean, and technical aesthetic. It feels like a serious sports watch, not a scaled-down version of something else.

On the wrist, it’s well-balanced, legible, and feels like a great everyday piece. I know the movement has a shorter power reserve compared to the 40mm, but that’s not something I find particularly limiting — I’d gladly take the trade-off for something this wearable.

It’s also encouraging to see IWC introduce this size without labelling it as a women’s watch. It’s clearly meant for anyone who prefers a more compact case, regardless of gender. That inclusive approach — paired with thoughtful design — makes the Ingenieur 35 not just a great watch, but also a smart and timely release.

For me, it was an easy favourite this year.

Watches & Wonders is always a highlight of the year. Even though I couldn't travel to Switzerland this time, I eagerly followed the new releases from the moment they dropped on April 1st. Picking a favourite from so many incredible watches is difficult, but I'd say the Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 is definitely one of the top contenders.

Indeed, this watch embodies everything that makes Grand Seiko such a distinctive (and Japanese) brand. Let’s start with the Spring Drive Movement. This unique technology, proprietary to Seiko, combines traditional mechanical winding with a quartz oscillator to deliver great chronometric performance. After ten years of research, this new spring drive Caliber 9RB2 delivers an astonishing precision of +/- 20 seconds per year. Hence the three letters “UFA” standing for “Ultra Fine Accuracy” written on the dial. This makes the SLGB003 the world’s most accurate wristwatch powered by a mainspring.

Turning to the design, the SLGB003 adheres to the 'Grammar of Design' principles established by Taro Tanaka in the 1960s, a cornerstone of the brand's enduring success. Its 37mm case crafted from a proprietary “high-intensity titanium” reacts to light beautifully. For the first time, a micro-adjustment clasp is fitted on the bracelet, a feature that Grand Seiko collectors have been requesting for a long time. In typical Grand Seiko Fashion, the brand has also incorporated a textured dial, inspired by the icy forests surrounding the Shinshu Watch Studio, the birthplace of their Spring Drive movements.

Finally, the price point, just under £10,000, is coherent with the brand's image and the watch's technicality. Overall, the SLGB003 presents a very appealing proposition.

One of the advantages of being a watch journalist is seeing most of the novelties before they officially launch. Consequently, it’s normal to have formed some pretty strong opinions of any given fair’s winners and losers long before the curtain rises. You arrive in Geneva, New York, San Francisco, Dubai, Shanghai, or wherever your watch-lust insists you must with a list of heavy hitters in mind, wondering whether anything unseen will have the minerals necessary to knock your pre-fair favourites off their perch.

This year, I was pretty sure I knew who would win “Geneva Watch Week” (as we now say to refer to the satisfyingly hi-jacked Watches & Wonders event).

With over fifty brands showing at the PalexPo, seventy plus at Time to Watches’ new home the Villa Sarasin, and around the same again at the chock-full Beau Rivage hotel (not to mention the AHCI and small, brand-hosted, boutique-based events occurring around the watch world’s capital city), there was a lot of mental input to digest.

There were some truly stunning pieces emerging from many of the independents operating out of the satellitic locations, but when it came to Watches & Wonders itself, I couldn’t get past the new core collection HYT S1 in my mind.

Plenty of incredible creations took centre stage in my imagination temporarily, but they were all soon usurped by a model from one of my very favourite brands thanks to it being a brilliant, surprisingly wearable mash-up of the new case design and the old, instantly identifiable dial layout, which we first saw in the frustratingly limited S1 Titanium “Japan Limited Edition” released last year.

While the Japan edition was extremely elegant (probably the most elegant HYT timepiece ever, IMO), what the rest of us “fluid fanciers” (gross, I know) wanted, was a return to that almost glowing green that reminds people of a certain age of Lego’s space exploration heyday.

I predict that this line will be the one upon which this iteration of an ambitious, admired, but oft financially embattled brand will live or die.

Personally, I’m keeping my fingers crossed for the former.

Given that this was the biggest Watches and Wonders ever, choosing a favourite watch is tough. But after four intense days of wrist rolls and hands-on action, a couple of strong contenders have emerged.

For me, the most visually stunning was the Moser Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel. It’s a deceptively simple idea: a three-hand 40mm purple enamel hammered dial, featuring no branding whatsoever.

Making it involves six individual crushed pigments, with the dial fired multiple times, and the result is mesmerizingly stunning. You’ll never tire of looking at the infinitely complex kaleidoscope of purple on your wrist, framed perfectly by the elegant white gold case.

The case back is much more traditional, with Moser’s in-house movement neatly showcased, while the whole package is set off by a purple leather strap.

It’s all yours for £23,000 or so – a very long way from the most expensive offerings in Geneva (it’s incredible how much watch prices have gone up recently – another sobering take-away from the show).