At the end of last year the WatchGecko Team predicted that 2024 might just be the year of the square and, in the spirit of proving them right, the launch of the Patek Philippe Cubitus was undoubtedly one of the most talked-about watch releases on social media this year. Leaked images of an advertisement in Fortune Magazine surfaced a few days before the official launch party in Munich, fuelling passionate online debate. Online reactions have been mixed, to say the least, with a level of intensity not seen since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 in 2019. Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern responded to the backlash, stating in Bilanz Magazine:
The haters are mostly people who have never had a Patek and never will. So that doesn’t bother me."
Now that initial excitement surrounding Patek Philippe's new Cubitus collection has settled, it's evident that social media can amplify expectations, especially when a brand like Patek Philippe unveils a new men’s collection after a 25-year hiatus.
The new Cubitus collection is available in three references. The first, the 5821/1A, is a stainless steel model with an olive green dial and date window. It's powered by the “26-330 S C” movement, which includes a 21k gold rotor and offers 45-hours of power reserve. The second reference, the 5821/1AR, shares the same movement and features a steel and rose gold case with a blue dial. It's interesting to note that Patek Philippe has chosen rose gold at a time when yellow gold is trending, especially considering that very few references are currently available in yellow gold in their current catalogue.
From a complication standpoint, the most interesting reference is the Platinum reference 5822P-001, including the brand new “240 PS CI J LU” caliber with a micro-rotor, big date (or grande date in Patek Philippe vocabulary), and two other complications. This caliber has 353 components and six patents, mostly linked to energy management and ensuring that the big date jumps precisely at midnight.
One of the most challenging aspects of big date complications is the smooth transition from the 31st to the 1st of the month. Patek Philippe has addressed this issue by developing a patented truncated wheel. Additionally, the big date design with both discs on the same plane enhances the overall aesthetic of the complication. Patek Philippe has also complemented the Platinum square-shaped case with a baguette-cut diamond at 6 o'clock.
Square watches are often more noticeable on the wrist due to their shape, and the Patek Philippe Cubitus, measuring 45mm from 4 to 10 o'clock, has a significant wrist presence. However, Patek Philippe has managed to keep the Cubitus remarkably thin (even the platinum version is less than 10mm thick), and the short lugs contribute to its comfortable fit on most wrists. The finishing on the case, bracelet, and movement is on par with other Patek Philippe watches, with a unique horizontal embossed pattern on the rotor and mini-rotor exclusive to the Cubitus collection.
In the UK, the Cubitus collection retails for £35,330 in stainless steel, £52,480 in steel and gold, and £75,690 in platinum. Despite the steep price tag, especially when compared to alternatives like the 41mm stainless steel Royal Oak (which retails for £11,000 less), authorized dealers are reporting high demand for the Cubitus. Pre-owned Cubitus watches are already fetching substantial premiums on the secondary market, reflecting the strong demand for Patek Philippe sports watches.
The resurgence of square watches is relatively recent, as most shaped watches were historically difficult to sell. Even the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus struggled to find an audience at their time of release. Shaped watches are now fully back in trend, which started with a growing interest from vintage watch lovers in Cartier's shaped watches like the Crash, Cloche, or Asymetrique. More recently, vintage Piaget watches have also gained popularity, blurring the lines between watches and jewelry.
When thinking about the history of square watches, it is impossible to ignore two iconic models that made history. One is the Cartier Santos, designed by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904, becoming the de facto first pilot's watch. Another is the Tag Heuer Monaco, the first waterproof automatic chronograph, launched in 1969 and famously worn by Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans. In the mid-2000s, Bell & Ross introduced their first square watch, the BR 01, with its cockpit instrument design, taking the market by storm and further popularizing square watches. There is no doubt that the release of the Cubitus confirmed the trend towards square watches in 2024. For collectors seeking a square watch, here is a selection from 5 different countries:
Benjamin James Scarifour
British
Benjamin James launched his Scarifour collection earlier this year through Kickstarter. Both he and his backers were surprised to notice the striking similarities between his watch and the new Patek Philippe Cubitus. This unexpected turn of events even led to his story being featured in the New York Times. The Scarifour, a classically sized watch measuring 31mm x 40mm, appeals to collectors seeking a shaped watch with a more modest size.
RRP: £540
Nomos Tetra 27
German
Nomos is an independent brand known for its minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired watches. Designed in Berlin and made in Glashutte, their square Tetra watch is no exception. The "true geometric square" case makes the watch truly distinctive, while the reasonable size, slimness, and in-house manually wound movement make it a compelling choice for watch enthusiasts.
RRP: £1720
Herbelin Cap Camarat Square Skeleton
French
Named after a cape in the south of the Saint-Tropez peninsula, the Cap Camarat Square Skeleton is limited to 500 pieces. This contemporary watch features a Swiss-made skeletonized movement and a cobalt blue FKM strap. The French brand, independent and family-owned for three generations, designs and assembles all its watches in the French town of Charquemont.
RRP: £2070
Rado Anatom
Swiss
Rado's Anatom collection was launched in the early 1980s and remains an intriguing option for collectors seeking a ceramic-shaped watch. The designers' primary focus was on making the watch as ergonomic as possible, with a curved sapphire crystal and integrated rubber strap giving it a substantial wrist presence. The Rado Anatom is powered by an R766 automatic movement, providing a reliable 72-hour power reserve.
RRP: £3150
Minase Horizon Mid-Size
Japanese
Minase is a Japanese independent brand based in Minase, Akita Prefecture. This independent brand prides itself on its complex case and bracelet construction, using various finishing techniques such as Sallaz polishing. Their "case-in-case" construction creates a unique and striking look. Square Japanese watches are not common, and this Minase will please watch collectors looking for something off the beaten path.
RRP: From £4800
