Rolex Submariner with Explorer dial takes top spot at Bonhams Knightsbridge sale
Bonhams held their Watches and Wristwatches sale at their Knightsbridge auction rooms on 21 February featuring 144 lots from antique pocket watches through to modern wristwatches. This report covers four of the more interesting lots in the auction plus a rare modern Patek Philippe sold by Bonhams in Hong Kong during their Luxury Online auction ending 22 February.
Commenting on the Knightsbridge sale Jonathan Darracott, Bonhams Global Head of Watches, noted:
“We are thrilled to see the outcome of the Bonhams Knightsbridge Watches and Wristwatch sale which delivered strong results of 89% sold by lot and 97% sold by value. The sale indicates a buoyant and selective market with buyers continuing to demand quality and rare items.”
Vintage Rolex Submariner with Explorer dial and 'exclamation point'
Rare and collectable Rolex Submariner, Ref. 5513, wristwatch with a ‘chapter ring exclamation point’ Explorer dial from circa 1962. Sold for £48,640 including buyer’s premium. © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
The Knightsbridge sale featured a rare and collectable Rolex Submariner, Ref. 5513 with an Explorer dial including a ‘chapter ring exclamation point’ from circa 1962. The stainless-steel wristwatch with pointed crown guards is powered by a 26-jewel Cal.1530 automatic movement, with the case sized at 39mm diameter.
Key to the value of this watch is the rare black Explorer dial with Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and a chapter ring on the outer rim of the dial, with polished Mercedes hands. The dial script reads ‘SUBMARINER’ and ‘200-660 FT’ denoting water resistance. Additionally, the dial also has 'exclamation point' below 6 on the dial. Bonhams provided insight into the fitting of the Explorer dial and the 'exclamation point' in their cataloguing about the watch.
‘The 5513 was first released in 1962. A small number of the reference were fitted with the Explorer dial configuration as seen here. These were only fitted from circa 1962-5. Of the nine variants of Explorer dials known to have been fitted to Submariners, all are 'exclamation point' meaning that they feature a lume plot below 6 denoting a reduced level of radiation, and feature full chapter rings’.
The watch was given an estimate of £20,000-30,000 and sold for £48,640 including buyer’s premium making it the highest value watch sold on the day at Knightsbridge.
Sought after ‘Dirty Dozen’ rare Grana military wristwatch sold
'Dirty Dozen' Grana military issue wristwatch from circa 1945. Considered to be the rarest of the 12 wristwatches produced for the British Military in circa 1945. Sold for £17,920 including buyer’s premium. © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
For military watch collectors the 'Dirty Dozen' wristwatches need no introduction, and for those who want the complete set of all 12 wristwatches the Grana version is believed to be the rarest of the group. To quote Bonhams from their catalogue.
‘During the Second World War the British Ministry of Defence tasked 12 watch companies with the role of producing watches that were fit for military action. These companies were Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor, and Vertex. Of all the watches created it is estimated that Grana produced the lowest number making it the rarest one to come across and of particular importance to those looking to complete their 'Dirty Dozen' collection’.
The Grana stainless-steel military issue wristwatch, from circa 1945, that Bonhams offered at their Knightsbridge sale was complete with its military ‘Broad Arrow’ below 12 on the dial. The inner side of the screw down back is engraved ↑ W.W.W M18933. The watch movement is a 15-jewel Cal.K.F.320 manual wind and the case diameter 36mm.
The watch sold within its estimate of £15,000-20,000 making £17,920 including buyer’s premium.
Rare French aviator specification wristwatch
Rare civilian version of the Mathey-Tissot, Type XX, stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch from circa 1960. Sold for £12,800 including buyer’s premium. © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
The Type XX watch is perhaps most famed for the Breguet Type XX model, but Mathey-Tissot also produced a Type XX to French Ministry specifications.
Bonhams’ Knightsbridge sale featured a rare Swiss, Mathey-Tissot, Type XX, stainless steel flyback chronograph wristwatch. Dated to circa 1960 the watch is fitted with a 17-jewel Valjoux Cal.72 manual wind movement with a case size of 38mm in diameter.
For the watch Bonhams wrote an informative catalogue essay about the Type XX watch
‘The Type XX watch was not limited to one brand, but was the format used by the French Ministry to instruct the manufacturer the specific functions and styling required. The required features included in the Type XX specifications were that the watches had to have a black dial, registers situated at 3 and 9 for constant seconds and a minute recording register, flyback for the chronograph while running and a diameter of approximately 38mm’.
The example up for auction by Bonhams signed by Mathey Tissot is a civilian version and as Bonhams’ noted is ‘a fine example of this military style chronograph’.
The bidders on the day obviously thought so as well, with the watch selling for £12,800 including buyer’s premium against an estimate of £6,000-8,000.
1990s Cartier Cristallor proves popular
Cartier Cristallor, 18k yellow gold cased wristwatch from circa 1990 with rectangular form case, stepped sides and canted corners. Sold for £16,640 including buyer’s premium. © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
Collector interest in fine Cartier wristwatches with distinctive case designs was again demonstrated with the sale of a Cartier, Cristallor, 18k yellow gold cased wristwatch from circa 1990. The case has a brushed and polished rectangular form with stepped sides and canted corners, plus a cabochon set crown. Its dial is classic Cartier with a white background, black Roman numerals, black inner minute track and blued steel sword hands. The watch has a 17-jewel ETA Cal.2512 manual wind movement. Overall, the case is 28mm x 34mm.
With an estimate of £3,000-4,000 the watch went on to do well achieving £16,640 including buyer’s premium.
Hong Kong auction - modern rarities come in green
Patek Philippe, Ref. 5930P-001, platinum world time flyback chronograph wristwatch with green guilloché dial. Sold in Bonhams’ Luxury Online auction in Hong Kong, 15 – 22 February for HK$702,500 (approx. £70,790) including buyer’s premium. © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
Bonhams’ Luxury Online auction in Hong Kong, 15 – 22 February offered some rare modern watches for auction including a Patek Philippe, Ref.5930P-001, platinum world time flyback chronograph wristwatch with 24-hour and day / night indicators from circa 2022. Powered by a Calibre: 28-520 HU automatic mechanical movement. The guilloche dial is green along with a matching green strap. Sized 39.5mm in case diameter the watch has a sapphire crystal transparent case back. The watch came with a complete set of maker's presentation box, Certificate of Origin, instruction manual, swing tag, receipt, and maker's factory box.
As Bonhams catalogued, in 2016 Patek Philippe introduced the Ref. 5930, which combined the practicality of a chronograph function with the convenience of a world timer. Patek Philippe would then later create the platinum reference 5930P with its distinctive and vibrant green guilloché dial.
Estimated at HK$600,000-900,000 the watch sold for HK$702,500 (approx. £70,790) including buyer’s premium.
