Followers of Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, Instagram account might have seen a video post of an IWC Pilot’s chronograph wristwatch floating in zero gravity inside a space capsule. Behind the floating watch is a stunning view from the capsule window of planet Earth below and outer space beyond. The spacecraft is the Polaris Dawn Mission Dragon capsule and onboard the space crew of four were accompanied by IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” (Ref. IW389111) wristwatches. All four of these wristwatches will be auctioned for charity by Christie’s in December. Details of the watches and the upcoming auction are covered in this report.
Also covered are three classic vintage ‘tool watches’ from Heuer, Rolex and Tudor that have been recently auctioned. Finally, Bonhams hit the right notes with their auction of a 2021 wristwatch collab between musician and artist Ronnie Wood and Bremont, which you can read about below...
IWC Schaffhausen x Polaris Dawn Mission space watches
On September 15, the Polaris Dawn commercial spaceflight mission capsule, Dragon and the Polaris Dawn crew safely returned to Earth and splashed down off the coast of Florida. The crew had spent nearly five days in low-Earth orbit. The mission having been launched on SpaceX’s Falcon 9 rocket from NASA’s Kennedy Space Centre on September 10.
The Polaris Dawn crew are Jared Isaacman, Mission Commander, retired United States Air Force Lieutenant Colonel Scott Poteet, Mission Pilot, Sarah Gillis, Mission Specialist and Anna Menon, Mission Specialist & Medical Officer.
As noted by the Polaris Dawn mission during their time in orbit space the crew travelling in the space capsule Dragon achieved a peak orbit height of 1,408 km above Earth and orbited through parts of the Van Allen radiation belt conducting research to better understand the effects of spaceflight and space radiation on human health. The crew also undertook the first ever commercial spacewalk at altitudes ranging between around 190 and 740 km above the Earth. Additionally, they carried out health impact research and tested in-space communications technology.
The Polaris Dawn commercial spaceflight mission is the first of three spaceflights planned as part of the Polaris Program which aims to advance human spaceflight capabilities. This will be done by testing new technologies and conducting scientific research covering how humans can best adapt to live and work in space.
IWC space watches to benefit St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital
IWC Schaffhausen has designed and donated four special edition Pilot’s Chronograph wristwatches which the crew used during the recent Polaris Dawn mission. The new watch is a space-themed chronograph based on the brand’s Pilot watch range. Given the designation, Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” (Ref. IW389111) the watch has a 44.5 mm case made of white ceramic and dark blue lacquered dial printed with tiny star images and the Polaris Dawn mission logo. The titanium case backs of the watches are engraved with the name of one of the four crew members. Having now returned to Earth, the wristwatches will be auctioned at Christie’s New York to help raise funds for the lifesaving work of St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital®. The hospital is a world-class institution developing treatments for childhood cancer and other paediatric diseases. The hospital is headquartered in Memphis, Tennessee, USA.
Further details of the charity auction will be covered in upcoming auction reports.
Vintage Heuer ‘Skipperera’ inspired by the America’s Cup
With the 37th edition of the famed America’s Cup yachting competition currently underway in Barcelona until 27 October, it seems appropriate to include a very rare vintage manual wind stainless steel, Heuer, Skipper chronograph, reference. 7753 in this month’s report.
This example was sold by Bonhams at their Watches and Wristwatches auction held on 11 September in Knightsbridge achieving £15,360 including buyer’s premium. The pre-sale estimate was set at £15,000 to £20,000.
As Bonhams’ catalogued the watch which is known as the ‘Skipperera’ was commissioned by Heuer’s legendary CEO, Jack Heuer who was inspired by 1967 America's Cup winning yacht, ‘Intrepid’. The yacht’s team were equipped with Heuer chronographs used for timing during the 1967 edition of the racing series.
To commemorate the win, Jack Heuer commissioned the 7754 (based on the 7753), which today remains one of the brand's rarest and most coveted watches."
The 1968 Heuer, Skipper, ‘Skipperera’ was the first of a series of Skipper wristwatch models to be made by Heuer and was powered by a 17-jewel Valjoux calibre.7730 movement. Apart from being the first of the Skipper series, the most distinctive aspect of this watch is of course the combination of colours featured on the dial. The dial colour itself is a deep metallic blue with the 60 seconds subdial in a ‘mint green’ shade. While the 15-minute regatta yachting race count-down register subdial is in three shades, a medium hue green, mint green and orange. The centre chronograph hand is also orange. The use of the mint green was accordingly inspired by the Intrepid yacht. Distinctively the deck of the yacht is painted in a mint green or teal like green colour.
Of note the Intrepid went on to win the 1970 America's Cup and still sails today as a vintage racing yacht out of Newport, Rhode Island, USA.
The Bonhams’ example of the Heuer, Skipper from circa 1970 was not in perfect condition, with the dial missing the inner internal raised surround tension ring with 1/5th second divisions. Additionally, the dial was showing a degree of patina that might not appeal to all collectors. These factors are probably reflective of the price achieved.
By way of comparison, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, sold an excellent condition Heuer, Skipper ‘Skipperera’ chronograph, reference: 7753/54, from circa 1970 at their New York watch auction held in June 2022. The watch achieved US $88,200 (approximately, £65,960), including buyer’s premium. Admittingly this sale was at the top of the market boom back in 2022, which has now cooled off since then, but it still shows the value of condition. Additionally, the Phillips’ Skipper had as noted in the cataloguing come from an important American collection. Phillips also noted that the 1968 Heuer, Skipper ‘Skipperera’ chronograph was based on a Carrera case.
Modern tribute watches by TAG Heuer, including Hodinkee collaborations
Reflecting the status of the original Heuer, Skipper chronograph, reference. 7754, (based on a reference. 7753), TAG Heuer have more recently introduced a modern tribute model. The modern version is a Carrera Chronograph Skipper, reference. CBS2213.FN6002, with an automatic movement and sized at 39mm. In addition, TAG Heuer and Hodinkee collaborated to produce a limited-edition tribute model of the Skipper which has now sold out.
The Skipper was not the only wristwatch created by Heuer with the maritime world in mind. Another highly collectable vintage Heuer is the Seafarer, reference. 2446C from the late 60s. This watch traces its origins back to the Heuer, Seafarer, reference. 2443 and reference. 2444 chronographs complete with a sea tide indicator made in the 1950s. Further back this linage includes an earlier chronograph reference. 346. All these wristwatches were made by Heuer for the well-known US sporting equipment and goods retailer Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Fast forward to 2024, and a new TAG Heuer Seafarer Chronograph, reference. CBS2014.FT6293 has been created in collaboration with Hodinkee as a homage to one of TAG Heuer’s iconic heritage watches.
Cave explorers and ocean divers
Two classic vintage ‘tool’ watches were sold at Fellows Auctioneers at their watches auction on 29th August held in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter.
First up was a rare Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Date Explorer II, reference. 1655 wristwatch from circa 1973. The 39mm cased stainless steel watch has a 24-hour calibrated bezel and is powered by an automatic calibre. 1520 movement. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel Oyster bracelet.
Estimated at between £8,500 and £9,500 the watch fetched £12,415 including buyer’s premium.
There is only a handful of these Rolex watches around in the secondary market. They are hugely valuable and sought-after watches, perfect for any collector. The story of the design captures the imagination, as well as it being eye-catching….”
Fellows Auctioneers gave some useful insight into the history of this now collectable vintage Rolex watch. As they noted the watch was originally designed for cave explorers such as speleologists who operated in environments of darkness for extended periods. The reference. 1655 was introduced in 1971 and had a production run until 1985. Most notably the watch features an oversize orange 24-hour hand which was designed to help wearers tell the difference between night and day when operating underground. The watch has a water resistance level rating of 100-meters which was a useful factor considering that many cave structures have underground water courses. However, as Fellows note despite the watches’ practical innovations it initially struggled to find a broad audience for its first iteration.
Ironically, the distinctive design plus the lower numbers initially produced have now made the reference. 1655 a collector favourite. The now iconic bright orange 24-hour hand watch has been given the moniker ‘Freccione’, (Italian for big arrow).
Today Rolex still retains the Explorer II model, complete with its large 24-hour orange display hand and 24-hour graduated bezel. Indeed, Rolex still references the use of the watch by cave speleologists, volcanologists, and explorers. The current model is a reference. 226570.
The second classic vintage ‘tool watch’ sold by Fellows Auctioneers has also been given a moniker by collectors, based on its watch hands. This of course is the Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner known as the ‘Snowflake'. The name ‘Snowflake' is derived from the hour and seconds hands that feature square shaped markers orientated on their side, along with square shaped hour markers on the dial. Other vintage Tudor Submariner’s with these hands are also referred to as ‘Snowflake' as well.
The Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner 'Snowflake' offered by Fellows Auctioneers is a reference. 7021/0 from circa 1969 with a blue dial. The case is stainless steel sized at approximately 40mm in diameter with a 60 minute calibrated divers bezel. Powered by an automatic movement with an Oyster stainless steel bracelet. The watch also has the classic Cyclops style date magnifying lens and is depth rated to 200 meters or 660 feet.
The close working relationship between Rolex and its subsidiary company Tudor is clearly shown with this example. The watch crown bears the Rolex ‘Crown’ emblem, and the case back is inscribed ‘Original Oyster Case by Rolex Geneva’.
Estimated at between £4,500 to £5,500 the watch sold above estimate at £8,905 including buyer’s premium.
For those interested in reading more about early vintage Tudor Submariner wristwatches, including the reference. 7021, as per this example sold by Fellows Auctioneers. Tudor has written some useful articles about their vintage Submariner range. Provided here is a link to an article about the brand’s diver watches from 1969 to 1999.
'Rock-A-Bye' Bremont wristwatch
A limited edition Bremont 18k white gold wristwatch, with a dial hand painted by musician and artist Ronnie Wood of the Rolling Stones, has sold for three times its pre-sale estimate of £5,000 to £7000 to achieve £21,760 including buyer’s premium. The watch was sold by Bonhams at their Watches and Wristwatches auction held on 11 September in Knightsbridge.
Given the name 'Rock-A-Bye' the Bremont is an automatic triple calendar wristwatch with a moon phase originally sold by Watches of Switzerland in 2021. Most distinctively the watch dial features a stylised guitar hand painted by Ronnie Wood and is 1 of 47 hand painted dials by Wood as part of a collaboration with Bremont in 2021. As Bonhams noted each watch dial in the collection is unique so each watch effectively has a ‘1 of 1’ image.
Ronnie Wood is famed as a guitarist and has been a member of the legendary Rolling Stones rock band since 1975. In addition, he is a visual artist and painter.
Sized at 42mm diameter the wristwatch was accompanied by a Ronnie Wood - Bremont display box, Limited Edition Certificate, and International Warranty.
© Banner photo courtesy of IWC Schaffhausen.
