With an opening bid of five million Swiss Francs, (approx. £4.4 million), Patek Philippe’s wristwatch contribution to the 10th running of Only Watch was always going to be the star attraction. The hammer eventually fell at an outstanding CHF 15.7 million, (approx. £13.8 million), to a bidder in the room. In all the non-profit charity auction held on Sunday 10 May in Geneva achieved CHF 28.3 million, (approx. £24.9 million), raising funds to accelerate research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy and related genetic diseases.
Featured in the 10th edition auction were 47 exclusive timepiece creations donated by 52 brands and independent watchmakers including, Bulgari, F.P.Journe, Patek Philippe, Rexhep Rexhepi, Richard Mille, TAG Heuer, Kari Voutilainen, and Zenith. This year’s auction was originally scheduled to be conducted in November 2023. The rescheduled date to May 2024 allowed The Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM), who are the charity behind Only Watch, more time to report in detail about their strategies and funding support for research projects such as clinical trials.
Held on a biennial basis since 2005, the Only Watch auctions have so far raised CHF 128 million, (approx. £112 million). The AMM has worked to bring together some of the biggest watch brands and independent watchmakers to raise funds by auctioning unique timepieces created for the Only Watch auction. The auctions are hosted by Christie’s on behalf of Only Watch with no buyer’s premium applicable.
This year’s 10th edition was attended by more than 500 collectors, brands and media with all lots selling. Highlighted in this article are the top six selling lots by value that demonstrate a tremendous range of watch design, technology, craft, and inspiration.
Chiming in at first spot – Patek Philippe’s, Reference No. 6301A-010
“With its beautiful guilloche enamel dial and crafted in steel…. this is the one and only…”
Patek Philippe, Reference No. 6301A-010, Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater wristwatch made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold during the auction for CHF 15,700,000, (approx. £13,788,620). © Patek Philippe. For Only Watch, 2024.
Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International Head of Jewellery, and auctioneer on the day gave the Patek Philippe, Reference No. 6301A-010, Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater wristwatch a suitably appropriate introduction before bidding started. This unique version of the model was specifically created by Patek Philippe for the Only Watch charity auction. Making this watch unique and distinct from the Reference No. 6301P-001 in platinum with a black dial that can be found on Patek Philippe’s website, the Only Watch version is crafted from stainless-steel. Additionally, the ‘Rare Handcrafts’ dial is beautifully hand-guilloched with a swirling pattern visible beneath a Grand Feu blue green enamel and applied hour markers formed from baguette-cut diamonds. Further the dial movement power reserve indicator and strikework power reserve indicator have a cleverly incorporated script reading ‘Only’ and ‘One’. On the reverse a sapphire crystal case back bears the metallized inscription ‘Only Watch 2024’. The manually wound calibre GS 36-750 PS IRM movement comprising 703 parts is housed within a 44.8mm diameter stainless-steel case. The watch is fitted on a patinated blue green alligator leather strap with fold-over clasp.
Estimated at CHF 1,500,000 - 1,800,000 the watch was always going to well exceed the estimate and as expected it did, by some margin, selling for CHF 15,700,000, (approx. £13,788,620). The successful bidder was in the room and judging by social media commentary well known within the watch collector world.
Incredibly even the £13.8 million paid for the watch still does not match the price paid for a record breaking Patek Philippe wristwatch sold at Only Watch in 2019. This watch, a Grandmaster Chime, Reference No. 6300A-010 features two dials and an astounding 20 complications. Again, the watch was specially created by Patek Philippe as its contribution to Only Watch in 2019 and crafted with a stainless-steel case. The watch auctioned for a staggering CHF 31 million, (approx. £27.2 million).
Richard Mille, RMS14 Talisman Origine, a ‘homage to Switzerland’
‘The brand's ingenious engineers embarked on a complete deconstruction and reinterpretation of the tonneau-shaped watch case, transforming it into a wearable artifact, an inspired and inspirational talisman.’ Richard Mille website
Richard Mille, Reference No. RMS14, ‘Talisman Origine’ pendant watch on a necklace made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold during the auction for CHF 2,380,000, (approx. £2,092,900). © Richard Mille. For Only Watch, 2024.
For Only Watch 2024, Richard Mille’s creation for the auction is certainly bold, dynamic, and innovative. As the company’s website states the Reference No. RMS14, Talisman Origine pendant watch on a necklace is ‘an homage to Switzerland, celebrating the country’s culture, values, and traditions.’ The RMS14 is designed to go ‘beyond the concept of a watch’.
Powered by a Calibre: CRMT5, in-house skeletonised automatic-winding tourbillon movement the baseplate and bridges are made of 3N and 5N gold. Further the watch movement has a free sprung balance with variable inertia and variable-geometry rotor. The movement is housed in a satin-finished red gold case with hand-polished rims. Hand-engraved symbols adorn the case. The case band and claws are made from grade 5 titanium with Swiss rhodonite inserts.
The accompanying necklace for the pendant watch is made from Swiss briarwood, gold, titanium and rhodonite threaded on a metal and rubber string.
Estimated at CHF 600,000 - 800,000 the pendant watch achieved CHF 2,380,000, (approx. £2,092,900).
Chronomètre Antimagnétique attracts lots of attention at Only Watch
Rexhep Rexhepi, Reference. RRCA Chronomètre Antimagnétique wristwatch made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold during the auction for CHF 2,100,000, (approx. £1,843,000). © Rexhep Rexhepi. For Only Watch, 2024.
Rexhep Rexhepi is an independent watchmaker and founder of Atelier AKRIVIA in 2012. The Atelier workshop moved to its current location in the old town of Geneva in 2017. Watchmaking design and inspiration is taken from the history of the world’s most famous watchmaking city. The philosophy of the Atelier is to create ‘optimally beautiful and innovative expressions of traditional watchmaking’. Timepieces are designed and built entirely in-house, and the Atelier’s expertise is in mechanical watch complications. Each watch is assembled entirely by one watchmaker. The founder’s own collection is signed ‘Rexhep Rexhepi’. Timepieces from the Atelier are sought after by discerning watch collectors.
To mark the 10th edition of Only Watch, Rexhep Rexhepi has unveiled its all-new creation, the Reference. RRCA Chronomètre Antimagnétique. The watch is both a tribute to historical antimagnetic chronometers and a practical timekeeper for modern life. The dial of the Chronomètre Antimagnétique is inspired by the “scientific” dials of historical chronometers.
The case is stainless-steel made of 30 components and is one of the rare few metal cases made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop. The movement ring, case back and dial plate form a Faraday cage to protect the movement against magnetism. Powered by an in-house, manually wound movement with the construction and materials specifically chosen for magnetism resistance.
The case is sized at 38mm in diameter with an external screw-down case back so that it can be removed to reveal a second sapphire case back allowing the movement to be viewed.
Estimated at CHF 100,000 - 150,000 the watch achieved CHF 2,100,000, (approx. £1,843,000).
Only the wearer can see the time and moon phase for this Chronomètre Furtif Bleu wristwatch
F.P.Journe, Reference. CFB, Chronomètre Furtif Bleu wristwatch made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold during the auction for CHF 2,000,000, (approx. £1,755,240). © F.P.Journe. For Only Watch, 2024.
Renowned independent watchmaker F.P.Journe, founded by François-Paul Journe, has been “inventing” and “making” watches for over 40 years. For Only Watch the maker has contributed the Reference. CFB, Chronomètre Furtif Bleu, a unique piece exclusively developed for the 10th Edition of Only Watch. Equipped with the new hand-wound Calibre. 1522 in 18K rose gold with a 42mm sized case, and bracelet, made from tantalum.
The model ‘Chronomètre Furtif’ takes its name from the difficulty of reading the time if the watch is not facing you directly, as the blue enamel dial reveals the frosted numerals only in the reflection of light. The moon phase and power reserve indication have been integrated into the movement and are visible only via the sapphire case back. The case back also features inscribed the words ‘Unique Piece, Only Watch 10th.’
Estimated at CHF 200,000 - 400,000 the watch achieved CHF 2,000,000, (approx. £1,755,240).
Watch theory, Louis Vuitton’s tribute to Albert Einstein
Louis Vuitton, Tambour Einstein Automata - Only Watch 2023 wristwatch made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold at the auction for CHF 700,000, (approx. £614,330). © Louis Vuitton. For Only Watch, 2024.
With a stunning and captivating dial, for Only Watch, Louis Vuitton created the Tambour Einstein Automata - Only Watch 2023.
Designed, developed, and manufactured at Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking workshop in Geneva, the Tambour Einstein Automata is the result of some of the most recognised horological and artisanal talents in the world today. The dial incorporates techniques of micro-sculpture and grisaille enamel and depicts the likeness of Albert Einstein. With 18K white gold hand engravings by Dick Steenman, plus miniature and grisaille handmade technics, by Nicolas Doublel.
The Calibre. LV 525 mechanical movement with manual winding was made by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton and includes an automata mechanism featuring 4 animations, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and power reserve indicator. The 18K white gold minute hand is in the shape of an atom set with one diamond. In all there are 426 components and a power reserve of 100 hours. The case is sized at 46.8mm in diameter.
Estimated at CHF 340,000 - 440,000 the watch achieved CHF 700,000, (approx. £614,330).
Voutilainen, world timer wristwatch, with an engine turned green dial
Voutilainen, Reference. TMZ217 CSW Only Watch wristwatch with a fully integrated world timer mechanism. Made for Only Watch 10th edition. Sold at the auction for CHF 450,000, (approx. £394,930). © Kari Voutilainen. For Only Watch, 2024.
Created by the esteemed independent Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen the Reference. TMZ217 CSW Only Watch features a fully integrated world timer mechanism. The sparkling green colour dial has been engine turned by hand. With a new, elegant cushion shape case inspired by the pocket watch which was made by Kari and Venla in 2019 for Only Watch. Sized at 39mm length by 39mm width the case is made from titanium, with light satin finish and polished surfaces.
The Calibre. TMZ217 movement is new and an evolution from previous Vingt-8 Calibre. Made from 272 components with a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement includes indication of another time zone with cities and a 24 hours disk, plus a quick correction by pressing the crown.
Estimated at CHF 175,000 - 215,000 the watch achieved CHF 450,000, (approx. £394,930).
Our thanks to Only Watch for the photos and watch details. To view all the 47 timepieces featured in the Only Watch 10th edition please visit: www.onlywatch.com
For more information about The Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM) work, please visit: www.onlyproject.org
