March has been busy with a combination of online and live sales across the major international auction houses and UK based auction houses. This update report covers some interesting watches including rare perpetual calendar wristwatches, golden Omega wristwatches, an ocean explorer’s Rolex GMT Master, a classic vintage motorsport Heuer Carrera and even some Cartier boutique display signs. As always, it is fascinating to see the range of watches available and the prices they achieve in a now more demanding market.
Rare perpetual calendar watches by MB&F and Urban Jürgensen
Very rare modern MB&F, Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar, from 2016. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for CHF139,700 (approx. £123,370). © Photo courtesy of Phillips.
A star lot at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, online auction, The Geneva Sessions Spring 2024, ending 12 March was a very rare MB&F, Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar, with a flying balance wheel, Ref. 03.R6.5226 from 2016. The watch made CHF139,700 (approx. £123,370) including buyer’s premium against an estimate of CHF 60,000 - 120,000.
The MB&F, Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar was the winner of the Best Calendar Watch category at GPHG 2016. The watch for sale is the sixth in a limited edition of only 25 pieces in 18k pink gold. Measuring 44mm in diameter the watch was accompanied by its MB&F guarantee, leather wallet, instructions booklet and presentation box.
As Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo catalogued the model was unveiled in 2015 and was conceived by Stephen McDonnell, an independent Irish watchmaker, and features an open-worked design by Eric Giroud. The in-house mechanism is comprised of 581 components with hand-finishing of the parts. The mechanical processor operates on a default 28-day month, deviating from the traditional 31-day model. Additionally, the movement has a double barrel providing a 72-hour power reserve.
Rare 1990, Urban Jürgensen, Reference 2 in platinum, perpetual calendar with moon phase. Sold by Bruun Rasmussen for 400,000 DKK (approx. £45,810). © Photo courtesy of Bruun Rasmussen / Bonhams.
Bruun Rasmussen part of the Bonhams Network and based in Lyngby, Denmark auctioned a very classic and elegantly stylish Urban Jürgensen perpetual calendar from 1990 at their 6 March Wristwatches auction.
The watch made double the estimate selling for 400,000 DKK (approx. £45,810) hammer price, excluding buyer’s premium, against an estimate of 200,000 DKK.
The Urban Jürgensen, Reference 2 in platinum, calibre FP71 includes a perpetual calendar and moon phase indication complications with automatic winding. The watch is sized at 38 mm diameter. Accompanied by an Urban Jürgensen mahogany box, manual, certificate, and a copy of John Knudsen's book “The Jürgensen Dynasty”.
Bruun Rasmussen noted that the handcrafted Reference 2 was introduced in Basel in 1990 and the watch for auction was one of the first ordered. Interestingly Urban Jürgensen let their customers choose their own serial number for their watch. Bruun Rasmussen also noted that approximately 175 pieces were produced of the Reference 2, of which only around 50 were cased in platinum.
Golden Omega wristwatches up for auction
Rare 1970s 18k gold cased Omega Flightmaster, reference ST 145.013. Sold by Bonhams for US $12,800 (approx. £10,080). © Photo courtesy of Bonhams.
For fans of the distinctive Omega Flightmaster pilot watch Bonhams, New York offered the chance to bid on a rare 18k gold version of the watch. The sale was Watches Online ending 11 March.
The Flightmaster reference ST 145.013 from circa 1970s, is an 18k gold cased wristwatch with a Calibre 910 manual wind chronograph movement and dual time zone. Sized at 43mm diameter. Estimated at US $10,000 -15,000 the watch sold for US $12,800 (approx. £10,080) including buyer’s premium.
Bonhams included some useful background to the Flightmaster model adding that the Omega Flightmaster debuted in 1969 and was designed for pilots. The first generation Flightmaster, reference ST 145.013, came with two different hand variations. Orange hands for amateur pilots and travellers and cadmium-coated yellow hands for professional pilots.
1969, limited edition Omega Speedmaster, Professional, reference 145.022-69, 18k gold chronograph wristwatch produced to Commemorate the Apollo XI Moon landing. Sold by Tennants Auctioneers for £27,280. © Photo courtesy of Tennants Auctioneers.
Another rare 18k gold cased Omega was sold by Tennants Auctioneers based in Leyburn, North Yorkshire at their Fine Jewellery, Watches & Silver sale on 16th March. In this case enthusiasts for the iconic Omega Speedmaster would have been drawn to this lot. The watch is an Omega Speedmaster, Professional, reference 145.022-69, 18k gold limited edition chronograph wristwatch produced in 1969 to commemorate the Apollo XI Moon landing. Only 1014 pieces were made. The watch is fitted with the calibre 861 manual wound movement and came complete with its original burgundy-coloured tachymeter bezel. Additionally, the watch had its Omega Apollo XI presentation box. The case is sized at 40mm diameter.
Tennants catalogued that the model was Omega's first ever 18k gold Speedmaster. Of the 1014 pieces made, numbers 1 and 2 were offered to President Nixon and Vice President Agnew. Astronauts including Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin received edition numbers between 3 to 32, whilst 33 to 1000 were offered to the public for sale and 1001 to 1014 went to the Apollo 14 and 17 crews and other personalities.
The watch sold well for £27,280 including buyer’s premium. The estimate was £10,000 - £15,000.
Commenting on the sale Adam Wasdell, Wostep, MBHI, Watches, Clocks and Barometers Specialist noted.
“This rare watch had such an interesting connection to one of the most astonishing moments in modern history, and this, combined with its good original condition, helped it realise such a fantastic price”.
An ocean explorer’s Rolex GMT Master
Rolex GMT Master is a reference 1675 worn by ocean explorer Vital Alsar. Sold by Halls for £12,880. © Photo courtesy of Halls.
With impressive provenance Halls based in Shrewsbury brought to market in March a Rolex GMT Master formerly the property of maritime explorer Vital Alsar.
The stainless-steel Rolex GMT Master is a reference 1675, calibre 1570 automatic, dual-time wristwatch with a 'Pepsi' bezel from circa 1972. The watch is 39mm in diameter. Accompanied by its Rolex acrylic service box, original fold-over clasp, copy of a Rolex advertisement featuring Vital Alsar, and the book 'La Balsa' by Vital Alsar and Enrique Hank Lopez, 1973.
Halls cataloguing provided a fascinating overview of Vital Alsar Ramirez (1933 -2020) life and exploration. Born in Spain he originally studied economics but was greatly interested in early oceanic exploration and inspired by Thor Heyerdahl’s 1947 crossing of the Pacific between South America and Polynesia on a raft called the Kon-Tiki. Vital Alsar went on to make a series of ocean crossings in various craft during the 1960s and 70s. His expeditions attracted the interest of Rolex and he was even featured in one of their advertising campaigns.
Halls noted that the watch was worn by Vital Alsar in 1977 during his Amazon and Atlantic voyage aboard three hand-built brigs. The watch was sold post sale for £12,880.
Classic vintage 60s motorsport Heuer Carrera chronograph wristwatch
'Sunray DX Motorsports Division' logo dial, Heuer Carrera stainless steel chronograph wristwatch from circa 1967. Sold by Sotheby’s for US $27,940 (approx. £22,010). © Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Emblazoned with it oil company 'Sunray DX Motorsports Division' logo and consigned by the original owner this Heuer Carrera epitomises the spirit of 60s motorsport in the USA. The watch was auctioned by Sotheby’s, New York, at their online Fine Watches sale ending 12 March. The Heuer Carrera is a reference 3647 stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with a 'Sunray DX' logo dial sized at 36 mm in diameter from circa 1967.
The watch was accompanied with a superb set of items including a Sunray DX Zippo lighter, Sunray DX name tag, Daytona International Speedway patch, original Yenko Stinger decal, 1967 Daytona Trans Am race day admission ticket and button, and Sunray DX Sports Car Club of America Festival decals.
Estimated at US $15,000 - 25,000 the lot sold for US $27,940 (approx. £22,010) including buyer’s premium.
Pair of Cartier boutique displays signs prove popular at Fellows
Pair of glass and enamelled Cartier boutique displays signs. Sold by Fellows Auctioneers for £1,196. © Photo courtesy of Fellows Auctioneers.
Following the trend that Cartier seems to be popular currently in auctions it was interesting to see this pair of glass and enamelled Cartier boutique displays signs come up for auction at Fellows Auctioneers in Birmingham at their Watches & Watch Accessories sale on 14 March.
Estimated at £100 - 150 the lot did well selling for £1,196 including buyer’s premium.
